NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
- NGneer
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
[quote="NGneer"][quote=Zippy post_id=384462 time=1517094078 user_id=2812]
You are the new Timon. Love this thread.
[/quote]
Thanks Zippy but I am not quite in Tim's league :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: .
Having said that I was very much impressed and inspired reading his build threads so did get a lot of ideas from him ;)
:rocks:[/quote]Could some one post a link to the timon thread please.
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You are the new Timon. Love this thread.
[/quote]
Thanks Zippy but I am not quite in Tim's league :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: .
Having said that I was very much impressed and inspired reading his build threads so did get a lot of ideas from him ;)
:rocks:[/quote]Could some one post a link to the timon thread please.
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Turk, Tims thread(s) are still there but unfortunately there are no working pictures anymore due to the Photobucket fiasco.
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Koso D64 Speedo installation.
Having seen the Koso D64 installation done on a couple of NC30s (notably on Jamboy’s OKI bike) I decided that I really liked the clean installation look of it and how it still maintained the overall OEM style, but with newer functionality and night visibility. So off a shopping I went to digitalspeedos.co.uk and ordered myself a D64 gauge.
Having spoken to Jon there to clarify which one I needed for the NC30, I also went for a “type f for black plug models mechanical to digital converter”. You can use magnetic pickups of the front disc but I didn’t want the extra cables wrapped around the forks – so went for the M to D converter option, and Jon at Digital Speedos said he would simply swap that over with the standard magnetic pickups the Speedo normally comes with – free of charge. Nice bloke
Sometime in the past, when I had started to horde bits for a build project, I had managed to pick up a very tidy speedo with a completely unmarked housing. I had originally intended to just use this as it was, or just swap the KMHh face with the MPH one I have lying around somewhere, but decided I would use it for the Koso gauge instead.
This is a pretty simple modification which requires just a couple of screwdrivers, a drill and a dremmel (or such like), so I thought I would take some pics along the way and do a bit of a write up....
Firstly start by removing the original internals from your speedo. This is not difficult and just requires a screwdriver for the screws holding the front and rear elements of the case together, for removing the existing cable drive housing and don’ t forget the little screw inside the trip meter reset knob.
Not difficult at all and very quickly you will end up with three bits. The two halves of the speedo casing (front and rear) and the internals themselves...
Put the internals away somewhere safe as you never know – you might want it someday. Then turn your attention to the casings.
My initial plan was to house the new speedo in the old casing using foam rubber to hold it steady and stop it rattling around.
A bit more trimming up and a couple of levels of foam and the speedo was well and truly housed in the front part of the speedo housing.
A quick measure of the new speedo mounting bolts for the new holes that would be required in the rear housing....
This was transferred to the rear speedo casing ...
..and new holes of 5.5mm were drilled
As the rear part of the speedo housing fits inside the front part (like a sleeve) it would no longer fit in due to the foam rubber I was using around the gauge. I was planning on trimming the rear sleeve portion down with a dremmel and a cutting disc so it could fit flush again at the back with just enough of the sleeve portion left to fit snug against the foam inserts.
It was at this point I realised that this would not be enough as there were two mouldings inside the rear housing that would catch on the body of the new speedo preventing it from sitting flush to the rear casing, and would need to be removed also.
The silver things you can see are the diffusers / reflectors for the light bulbs. These pull of very easily and reveal the plastic mouldings underneath. The white lining also pulls out easily and it was out with the dremmel but now to remove the mouldings.
The elongated, rather phallic looking, hole on the left was intentional, as this would later provide access to the setting buttons.
Having removed the light mouldings that were stopping the new speedo from fitting flush into the back of the speedo housing, I did a test fit and it was so impressed with the secure fit, I decided to get rid of all the foam in the front portion of the speedo and just secured the Koso gauge using the two mounting bolts in the rear. This also meant no requirement to cut down the ‘sleeve’ portion on the rear half of the housing.
This picture also shows why I elongated the hole at the top (created removing the bulb holder moulding) so I could access the setting buttons on the back of the Koso gauge. Although it should be pretty well protected in the nosecone, I will put a wrap of tape or something around the housing before I fit it to the bike, just to minimise the open aperture and help prevent any water ingress.
And the finished article from the business end..
That was back in about 2013 and once finished the gauge went away to join the rest of my growing stash of bits. Well today having got the clock and light brackets back amongst the pile of powder coated bits yesterday, today was spent rebuilding the lights and clocks.
Just for comparison….old clocks;
and new clocks with the Koso dial fitted;
..and finally fitted to the bike;
Having seen the Koso D64 installation done on a couple of NC30s (notably on Jamboy’s OKI bike) I decided that I really liked the clean installation look of it and how it still maintained the overall OEM style, but with newer functionality and night visibility. So off a shopping I went to digitalspeedos.co.uk and ordered myself a D64 gauge.
Having spoken to Jon there to clarify which one I needed for the NC30, I also went for a “type f for black plug models mechanical to digital converter”. You can use magnetic pickups of the front disc but I didn’t want the extra cables wrapped around the forks – so went for the M to D converter option, and Jon at Digital Speedos said he would simply swap that over with the standard magnetic pickups the Speedo normally comes with – free of charge. Nice bloke
Sometime in the past, when I had started to horde bits for a build project, I had managed to pick up a very tidy speedo with a completely unmarked housing. I had originally intended to just use this as it was, or just swap the KMHh face with the MPH one I have lying around somewhere, but decided I would use it for the Koso gauge instead.
This is a pretty simple modification which requires just a couple of screwdrivers, a drill and a dremmel (or such like), so I thought I would take some pics along the way and do a bit of a write up....
Firstly start by removing the original internals from your speedo. This is not difficult and just requires a screwdriver for the screws holding the front and rear elements of the case together, for removing the existing cable drive housing and don’ t forget the little screw inside the trip meter reset knob.
Not difficult at all and very quickly you will end up with three bits. The two halves of the speedo casing (front and rear) and the internals themselves...
Put the internals away somewhere safe as you never know – you might want it someday. Then turn your attention to the casings.
My initial plan was to house the new speedo in the old casing using foam rubber to hold it steady and stop it rattling around.
A bit more trimming up and a couple of levels of foam and the speedo was well and truly housed in the front part of the speedo housing.
A quick measure of the new speedo mounting bolts for the new holes that would be required in the rear housing....
This was transferred to the rear speedo casing ...
..and new holes of 5.5mm were drilled
As the rear part of the speedo housing fits inside the front part (like a sleeve) it would no longer fit in due to the foam rubber I was using around the gauge. I was planning on trimming the rear sleeve portion down with a dremmel and a cutting disc so it could fit flush again at the back with just enough of the sleeve portion left to fit snug against the foam inserts.
It was at this point I realised that this would not be enough as there were two mouldings inside the rear housing that would catch on the body of the new speedo preventing it from sitting flush to the rear casing, and would need to be removed also.
The silver things you can see are the diffusers / reflectors for the light bulbs. These pull of very easily and reveal the plastic mouldings underneath. The white lining also pulls out easily and it was out with the dremmel but now to remove the mouldings.
The elongated, rather phallic looking, hole on the left was intentional, as this would later provide access to the setting buttons.
Having removed the light mouldings that were stopping the new speedo from fitting flush into the back of the speedo housing, I did a test fit and it was so impressed with the secure fit, I decided to get rid of all the foam in the front portion of the speedo and just secured the Koso gauge using the two mounting bolts in the rear. This also meant no requirement to cut down the ‘sleeve’ portion on the rear half of the housing.
This picture also shows why I elongated the hole at the top (created removing the bulb holder moulding) so I could access the setting buttons on the back of the Koso gauge. Although it should be pretty well protected in the nosecone, I will put a wrap of tape or something around the housing before I fit it to the bike, just to minimise the open aperture and help prevent any water ingress.
And the finished article from the business end..
That was back in about 2013 and once finished the gauge went away to join the rest of my growing stash of bits. Well today having got the clock and light brackets back amongst the pile of powder coated bits yesterday, today was spent rebuilding the lights and clocks.
Just for comparison….old clocks;
and new clocks with the Koso dial fitted;
..and finally fitted to the bike;
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
[quote="NGneer"]Turk, Tims thread(s) are still there but unfortunately there are no working pictures anymore due to the Photobucket fiasco. :( :( :([/quote]Thanks. The photo bucket foooook up has l ruined some good threads. Shame really.
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Like the hrc top yoke stem plug. I will fit mine one day but just a little worried i would lose it or it gets nicked from the usual bike haunts i frequent. It's a damn tight/good fit and looks ace but i wrapped it back up and put it away waiting for the day I dare use it. Pathetic I know.
Like your build ngneer, why did you choose the koso Speedo over the original if you don't mind me asking
Like your build ngneer, why did you choose the koso Speedo over the original if you don't mind me asking
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
If you have a stem plug...use it. Someone would have to have tools with them an NC30 to put it onto and be stupid enough to start trying to pull bits of a strangers bikecbr400rrn wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:09 pmLike the hrc top yoke stem plug. I will fit mine one day but just a little worried i would lose it or it gets nicked from the usual bike haunts i frequent. It's a damn tight/good fit and looks ace but i wrapped it back up and put it away waiting for the day I dare use it. Pathetic I know.
Like your build ngneer, why did you choose the koso Speedo over the original if you don't mind me asking
A lot of the elements of this build come under the just "Because I could" heading rather than the "Because I should". Things like the Koso dial or the Angel eye sidelights were little projects I could just potter on with whilst I didn't have my bikes with me, and keep my frustrated hands busy. Having said that I did want to come up with a more elegant solution to the MPH\KMH speedo face issue than the usual overlay. I do have an MPH dial face somewhere but (back then) saw Jamboy do this mod with the Koso dial and liked the fact it kept the original housing, so overall OEM look, but also provided an MPH speedo which is also genuinely visible in the dark
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
NGneer
How did you clean the bearing surfaces up after nickel plating on the rear axle / shaft ?
How did you clean the bearing surfaces up after nickel plating on the rear axle / shaft ?
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
What did you use for the angel eyes?
An LED ring encased in plastic by any chance?
An LED ring encased in plastic by any chance?
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
They were a proper Angel eye set......but they are effectively just an led ring encased in plastic anyway, why?bikemonkey wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:51 pmWhat did you use for the angel eyes?
An LED ring encased in plastic by any chance?