NC30 cut out

[crookzy1]

This morning after riding for about 30 minutes it died suddenly whilst slowing to a stop at traffic lights. When pressing the starter button I got no sound at all. After about 10 minutes of waiting, I got a very slight sound from pressing the starter but hardly anything. Horn did't work either. I didn't attempt to turn the lights on but they had been on (low beam) whilst riding and then turned off when it cut out. I left the bike for 4 hours and it started first time.

Looking at previous posts, this may be a wiring or switch issue but I just need some guidance on which wires to look at really if anyone can help?

It's also my understanding that if the battery was low, it couldn't have re-charged itself from 4 hours of sitting still.

[crookzy1]

It happened again. I noticed turning my indicator on reduced my power and then turning it off returned power to normal. Shortly after this is cut out.

Edit: have tested bike and it is not charging when engine is running. Think the gen is ded

[Icemaestro]

Hi, my guess would be the regulator rectifier not charging the battery enough or loose terminal or connector/wiring somewhere....you need a multimeter, check battery voltage, charge if low then do rr. Checks with bike running...as for what you do now on the roadside? Trailer home?

[crookzy1]

Hi, my guess would be the regulator rectifier not charging the battery enough or loose terminal or connector/wiring somewhere....you need a multimeter, check battery voltage, charge if low then do rr. Checks with bike running...as for what you do now on the roadside? Trailer home?

Just made an edit to my post. I got it recovered and started with another power source. The voltage didn't increase at all, it won't charge. I think it's the gen but will visually inspect it tomorrow and try the spare R/R I have.

I've wheeled the bike so much today I think I've done a month's worth of exercise

[magg]

No actual measured voltages to support your observations.

Are the loom and battery chassis connections in good order, you made a comment in an earlier post that the battery to chassis cable was an issue. Have you checked the main fuse located in the starter relay, others have had problems in this area.

Why not try following the charging system test document that appears in the Document Library on this site or send me your e-mail address and I can forward another document that covers the same subject in somewhat more detail.

I am still intrigued as to how the headlight switch wiring survived your super-dooper 90/130W bulbs. Other parts of the electrical system may be victims of the same style of “upgrade”.

[speedy231278]

This morning after riding for about 30 minutes it died suddenly whilst slowing to a stop at traffic lights. When pressing the starter button I got no sound at all. After about 10 minutes of waiting, I got a very slight sound from pressing the starter but hardly anything. Horn did't work either. I didn't attempt to turn the lights on but they had been on (low beam) whilst riding and then turned off when it cut out. I left the bike for 4 hours and it started first time.

Looking at previous posts, this may be a wiring or switch issue but I just need some guidance on which wires to look at really if anyone can help?

It's also my understanding that if the battery was low, it couldn't have re-charged itself from 4 hours of sitting still.

The recovery capability of a battery should not be underestimated. Don't forget that the power produced in a battery is a chemical reaction. While applying a current/voltage to a battery will increase the state of charge, it is capable of doing so by itself. I have had several instances where I have come to grief with a flattened battery that has been incapable of operating the starter solenoid or turning the starter motor over, and after a short period of time the bike has fired up quite happily.

I presume the references to 90/130 headlamps come from another thread, but if you are running a pair of these then on low beam you are pulling 50% more juice than on high beam with standard spec headlamps. It would not be unreasonable to suspect that if the charging system hasn't been looked after, it cannot cope very well with the extra load. I don't know why, but when I go from low to high beam on my NC35 fitted with 60/55 lamps, the extra 10W load makes a significant difference to the voltage measured from the charging system, and that's with all new wiring, new stator and MOSFET reg/rec. You're pulling half as much again before you hit main beam, and then it's more than double the intended load. You may well have fried reg/rec if it's a factory fitted one!

[crookzy1]

Replaced the male and female alternator connectors and the alternator itself, all of which were visibly fried. It is now charging again.

@Speedy and Magg, thanks for the replies. Could the bulbs have damaged the alternator connectors? For the record, these bulbs were in the bike when I bought it, I replaced them when I realised.

The reason I hadn't checked the connectors prior is because the lower fairing bolts were rusted through, I took the hit and snipped them out, felt I had no other choice, meaning I have to now repair all of my lower fairing tabs. Yes I know, I was lazy to not do this before because it would have saved me hassle down the road.