Oil seals replacement.
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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wullie3xv9
- Settled in member
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:12 pm
- Bike owned: GK76a GSXR400R & TZR250RS
- Location: Fife, Scotland
Oil seals replacement.
Hi folks. 
Having just bought forum member 4hundread's GK76a from him, (which has a weeping clutch push rod seal & possibly the gearchange shaft seal too), I was wondering if it's also possible to replace the output shaft/sprocket & coolant pump drive shaft seals without having to remove the engine. (To allow removal of the lower crankcase half).
If it is possible to replace them with the engine in situ, I'll order new seals & replace the push rod & gearchange shaft seals first & see if the leak disappears before tackling the output shaft & coolant pump shaft seals.
Just making sure I have a fluid tight engine.
Cheers. Wullie.
Having just bought forum member 4hundread's GK76a from him, (which has a weeping clutch push rod seal & possibly the gearchange shaft seal too), I was wondering if it's also possible to replace the output shaft/sprocket & coolant pump drive shaft seals without having to remove the engine. (To allow removal of the lower crankcase half). If it is possible to replace them with the engine in situ, I'll order new seals & replace the push rod & gearchange shaft seals first & see if the leak disappears before tackling the output shaft & coolant pump shaft seals.
Just making sure I have a fluid tight engine.
Cheers. Wullie.
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dobbslc
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 693
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:06 pm
- Bike owned: 3TJRRSP TRX850 XV750 cafe
- Location: Hertfordshire
Re: Oil seals replacement.
Might be worth ordering the seals to see if they have a lip on them, if they don't they "should" be swappable in situ.
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wullie3xv9
- Settled in member
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:12 pm
- Bike owned: GK76a GSXR400R & TZR250RS
- Location: Fife, Scotland
Re: Oil seals replacement.
Thanks Dobbslc New push rod & gearchange shaft seals were delivered today &, as I suspected, they have no lip on them so hopefully, after I've fished out he old ones, I'll be able to fit them without damaging them! 
New push rod & gearchange shaft seals were delivered today &, as I suspected, they have no lip on them so hopefully, after I've fished out he old ones, I'll be able to fit them without damaging them! -
dobbslc
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 693
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 8:06 pm
- Bike owned: 3TJRRSP TRX850 XV750 cafe
- Location: Hertfordshire
Re: Oil seals replacement.
Good stuff!
I use a self tapper screw carefully screwed into the edge of the seal to help pull it out.
A bit of heat will help loosen it up.
I use a self tapper screw carefully screwed into the edge of the seal to help pull it out.
A bit of heat will help loosen it up.
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wullie3xv9
- Settled in member
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:12 pm
- Bike owned: GK76a GSXR400R & TZR250RS
- Location: Fife, Scotland
Re: Oil seals replacement.
Thanks for the tips, dobbslc.
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wullie3xv9
- Settled in member
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:12 pm
- Bike owned: GK76a GSXR400R & TZR250RS
- Location: Fife, Scotland
Re: Oil seals replacement.
Hello again folks, time for an update. I spent a good chunk of the last weekend in September fixing a couple of snags & fettling a few things on the ol' girl. First on the agenda was replacing the leaking clutch pushrod seal mentioned earlier in the thread ...
Before ... ( A bit of a mess ).
during ... (note chunk of missing seal lip @ 3 o'clock. No wonder it was leaking oil !)
... & after. While I was in there I also fitted the new gearchange shaft seal, just in case that was leaking too. (The output shaft seal looked good so will do till the winter). No major problems were encountered while replacing the two seals. I dismantled, cleaned & regreased the cluth actuator gubbins, (mounted on the inside of the sprocket cover), as it was absolutely covered in filth, as was the inside of the cover ! The pushrod itself was also cleaned up & rubbed down to get rid of any corrosion, so preventing damage to the new seals lip. I also swapped the front 14 tooth sprocket for a 15 tooth as it's too frenetic for me on stock 14/44 final gearing! ( With the 15 tooth on, in 6th, it accelerates up hills like it's in 5th ! )
Next on the "to do" list was fitting a fuel tap overhaul kit to a new/newer tap body, as the tap assembly fitted was weeping fuel past the valve shaft seal ! Both the tap body & o/haul kit were found in the stash of spares that came with the bike.
Next, after the fuel tap change, was replacing the stock 76 deg. C opening thermostat with a new, 82 deg. C one from an SV 650. Bought from Robinsons Foundry for the princely sum of £11.60 ( they were on special offer last month ), plus postage. I read on here that it's a recognised problem that GK76's run too cool, so, as I live in the frozen north, I've replaced it. Before changing the 'stat, the temp needle just touched the bottom of the NORMAL zone when up to temp.! With the 82 deg. t/stat fitted, the needle now goes a quarter of the way into the NORMAL zone. As I said above, as I live in the frozen north, I might get away with fitting a t/stat that opens at 86-88 deg. C to get closer to the needle indicating halfway into the NORMAL zone, which is where it should be, no?
The last task was swapping the rear brake fluid reservoir for one that would accept screws for the cover, as the res. fitted had its cover held in place with a Zip-Ty. Again, a servicable one was part of the spares haul that came with the bike.
So, after a productive Saturday of fixing & fettling, I took 'er out on the Sunday afternoon to enjoy the fruits of my labours to find that everywhere I went there were local cops sitting about in Astra's, Connects & Transits !! I still haven't found out why. (Not one RADAR was aimed at me tho). Anyhoo, took a photo of 'er glinting in the afternoon sun. Hopefully get out on it again this Sunday so I can ... ehm ... get used to the ol' girl ... properly.
If the back-end looks high it's because Si fitted shorter "dog bones" to help quicken the steering.
Read more: http://the2strokeforum.proboards.com/th ... z2h4nimYlz
I spent a good chunk of the last weekend in September fixing a couple of snags & fettling a few things on the ol' girl. First on the agenda was replacing the leaking clutch pushrod seal mentioned earlier in the thread ...Before ... ( A bit of a mess ).
during ... (note chunk of missing seal lip @ 3 o'clock. No wonder it was leaking oil !)
... & after. While I was in there I also fitted the new gearchange shaft seal, just in case that was leaking too. (The output shaft seal looked good so will do till the winter). No major problems were encountered while replacing the two seals.
I dismantled, cleaned & regreased the cluth actuator gubbins, (mounted on the inside of the sprocket cover), as it was absolutely covered in filth, as was the inside of the cover ! The pushrod itself was also cleaned up & rubbed down to get rid of any corrosion, so preventing damage to the new seals lip. I also swapped the front 14 tooth sprocket for a 15 tooth as it's too frenetic for me on stock 14/44 final gearing! ( With the 15 tooth on, in 6th, it accelerates up hills like it's in 5th ! )
Next on the "to do" list was fitting a fuel tap overhaul kit to a new/newer tap body, as the tap assembly fitted was weeping fuel past the valve shaft seal ! Both the tap body & o/haul kit were found in the stash of spares that came with the bike.
Next, after the fuel tap change, was replacing the stock 76 deg. C opening thermostat with a new, 82 deg. C one from an SV 650. Bought from Robinsons Foundry for the princely sum of £11.60 ( they were on special offer last month ), plus postage. I read on here that it's a recognised problem that GK76's run too cool, so, as I live in the frozen north, I've replaced it. Before changing the 'stat, the temp needle just touched the bottom of the NORMAL zone when up to temp.! With the 82 deg. t/stat fitted, the needle now goes a quarter of the way into the NORMAL zone. As I said above, as I live in the frozen north, I might get away with fitting a t/stat that opens at 86-88 deg. C to get closer to the needle indicating halfway into the NORMAL zone, which is where it should be, no?
The last task was swapping the rear brake fluid reservoir for one that would accept screws for the cover, as the res. fitted had its cover held in place with a Zip-Ty. Again, a servicable one was part of the spares haul that came with the bike.
So, after a productive Saturday of fixing & fettling, I took 'er out on the Sunday afternoon to enjoy the fruits of my labours to find that everywhere I went there were local cops sitting about in Astra's, Connects & Transits !! I still haven't found out why. (Not one RADAR was aimed at me tho). Anyhoo, took a photo of 'er glinting in the afternoon sun. Hopefully get out on it again this Sunday so I can ... ehm ... get used to the ol' girl ... properly.
If the back-end looks high it's because Si fitted shorter "dog bones" to help quicken the steering.
Read more: http://the2strokeforum.proboards.com/th ... z2h4nimYlz