xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions

[xivlia]

when i connect the +ve probe to the red/white terminal on the reg, and the -ve probe to the green terminal. all that happens is it sparks and a fuse blows...now i cant remember which fuse it was.. but thats what happend last time i did it. i think it was the fuse in the starter soleniod.. the 30A one. now im sure thats not suppose to happen..

[magg]

Connecting a DC voltmeter across the rect/reg terminals cannot blow fuses. I suggest you take a close look at the connect to make sure it is not faulty. Sounds like the red/white and green connector contacts are touching when you probe the connector.

[Jashdown]

Do you actually have the multimeter set to "Volts"? Or have you got it on amps still.

[xivlia]

its obviously set on volts :D. i dunno it just sparks... :\ i thought the red/white was directly connected to the +ve on the battery and the green was directly connected to the -ve on the battery...so i dont see how it can spark :\ im going to try it again tommorrow..

[Jashdown]

Nothing is directly connected to the negative. The negative battery terminal is grounded to the frame, that's all.

[xivlia]

ah okay. well il try the reg/rec tests and see how it goes. i shall post te results tomorrow.

[xivlia]

okay. here are the results after testing the rec/reg wire terminals. im getting the battery voltage after testing red/white and green terminals...there is full continuity between the green terminal and earth. also all three resistances between any two yellow wires is within spec. 0.6ohms on all of them..so i tested the bike up again..it took some time to sart..it sounds like the starter relay/solenoid was getting jammed. and wasnt turning over...but i managed to get it working by trying over and over again..after it fired up..the bikes battery wasnt getting charged at all. it was just staying at 12.60 with all lights off at 5k rpm. soooo the reg.rec is definatley fucked since it really cannot be anything else...ive checked pretty much everything... and its working...if only there was a way to literally check to see if the reg/rec was working or not.

[magg]

Try this, if my instruction are confusing let me know and I will try to clarify (the Haynes manual has the same procedure in a table but it might be confusing to some).

Your multimeter should have a resistance range with a diode symbol, do you know what a diode symbol is?

Set the meter to this resistance range.

Disconnect the rect/reg.

Connect the +ve lead of your meter to each of the pins on the rect/reg that are normally connected to the yellow wires, in turn, and connect the -ve lead to the pin on the rect/reg that normally connects to the red/white wire. Your meter should display a value. No value indicates a dud rect/reg. Repeat the process but swap the +ve and -ve probe leads, you should get infinite resistance reading. Any reading indicates a dud rect/reg.

Connect the -ve lead of your meter to each of the pins on the rect/reg that are normally connected to the yellow wires, in turn, and connect the +ve lead to the pin on the rect/reg that normally connects to the green wire. Your meter should display a value. No value indicates a dud rect/reg. Repeat the process but swap the +ve and -ve probe leads, you should get infinite resistance reading. Any reading indicates a dud rect/reg.

Connect the +ve probe to the pin on the rect/re normally connected to the red/white wire and connect the -ve probe to the pin on the rect/reg normally connected to the green wire. You should get infinite resistance reading. Any reading indicates a dud rect/reg.

Now you are left with the reg half of the rect/reg. A dud reg half results in either over-charging or no charging. Overcharging is obvious as the battery voltage keeps rising with increasing rpm. No charge is best checked by measuring the voltage between the yellow wires while the rect/reg is connected and the engine is running. If you get a continual < 2 volts volts between any of the yellow wires with engine running then the reg half of the rect/reg is over-killing the alternator output and is therefore stuffed.

I have tried to be explicit as possible but if there is any part you do not understand, do not hesitate to ask.

[magg]

One other thing that may not have been mentioned, is the main fuse and its connections in good condition. A poor connection will give all manner of running and charging problems.

[xivlia]

thank you for this info...i have just tested the first half.. and everything seems fine.. but it doesnt charge the battery...you said its best to check with the reg/rec connected with the bike running...but how can i measure the voltage if the reg/rec is connected...there are no exposed wires...or would i have to put the probe from the underside of the connecter...i could probably do it like that actually...