My big plan for my NC29!

[Crazy_German]

Don't underestimate the KOSO, they were even used to BIMOTA DB7

I don´t underestimate the guys from KOSO, but I guess it will be tricky to wrap around an cable on an spark plug which lies down about 10 cm in the Valve Mechanism Cover.
How do the NC29 pics up the rpm for the OEM rpm-meter? Maybe I could use that picup for the KOSO to.

All sounds interesting and expensive - might I suggest some crash protection of sorts as you've already said you've crashed twice? lol

And about the crash protection: I´ve got an easy plan, I just won´t hit the ground an 3rd time.

[Crazy_German]

Hi there Guys,

Just disassabled my whole bike to the frame. And disassabled the complete engine for an ovrhaul and tuning.
Talked to my engine specialist which bores of the liners for my bigger Pistons. Got some from Je Pistons which are 58 mm diameter.
Does Anybody know the material witch the liners are made of? And does anybody know if I need new liners for that bigger bore?

I want to high up the displacment too and there are different possiblities: I could take longer con-rods or machine down the engine block surface. But than I´ve got that problems with the valve drive gears.

I already talked to Graeme France in the past but not jet again, just want to ask here first!

So maybe anbody could help out.
Best regards, crazy_german

[selexon]

A note on a few things:

Std bore is 55mm + - so to taking it to 58 may be pushing the limits of the std liners. As you don't want to have the liners under 2.5mm thick or you will have problems warping or cracking the bottom skirt of the liner.

The std liners should be cast iron as the std pistons are not nikasil coated.

To increase the displacement you don't change the length of the con rod, You will need to change the position of the conrod big end in the crank. This will give you a longer stroke. This requires a shit load of machining and balancing to be done correctly. Not to mention possible spacer to be made for the head and resetting the piston to valve clearance.

Also save spending $10,000 on the ceramic disc. If you want awesome breaking on the bike with the std front end. All you need is:
1. Active Japan 40mm mounts
2. 40mm mount 30/34 brembo calipers (any ducati or aprilia 91-98)
3. Braided Lines
4. Std Stainless Discs. Non Wavy
5. Metallic Sintered material brake pads
6. Brembo or Japo Radial Master cylinder
All up you should get these for about 1000 euro.

[Crazy_German]

Hi there Guys,

so more than 10 month are gone since the last word got posted on this thread. My english is still kind of horrible but I will do my very best.
10 month are a long time and my project should be done. unfortunately I got other stuff to do and didn´t got much time for my bike, but I made It now to the point where I can say: ready for assembley.

But I still got some questions about parts and mods:

I still need a good rear brake disc, but I don´t know which one is a good one. I thought about Armstrong, Galfer or EBC (but from the EBC wavy type i can´t find a picture so I´m unsure how It would look on my bike) I want a wavy type in the back or a good locking non-wavy type. I should not look like the original honda part.
For the front I got non-wavy disc from BrakeTech which

Next problem:
My engine Is tuned up with an 444cc Kit, KentCams, an Ignitech CDI, GF-Racing Exhaust System, HRC Replica Ram air kit from GF Racing.
So I got some worries about the engine temperature and I think about a bigger radiator mod.
I need an advice which radiator will work the best in an NC29 with an full tyga performance fairing. (need year and model type to know what I should search on the web).
The best would be an V-shaped rad like the motogp-bikes got. relocating the hose connetors would be no problem cause we could weld aluminiun at my workplace. But any other approved and simple rad mod would be welcome too.

In the next days I will upload some pics from the components and the hole porgress the project makes. Could somebody tell me an website where I can upload pics for free?

[tanuki]

I'm still looking for a decent sized rad that will fit between the tyga lowered I've tried RRW fireblade and zxr400 both fit but are to wide, I think I may have found the one though with the nsr250 mc21/28 should know for sure. Ext weekend.

[dunkenb]

Would running an nc30/35 lower rad alomg with standard rad work?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BLACK-HON ... 3f0f70cf71

Or this.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MV-Agusta-F4- ... _500wt_689

[Crazy_German]

thank you guys, I quess the VFR 400 Cooler would look great and just need a little craftsmanship for new brackets. But will it fit in front of the downpipes or directly between downpipes and engine?.

the small cooler from the vfr looks a bit like the HRC cooler for the NC29. Is still available in germany (got the HRC parts manual from here) but I would cost about 360 Euros. A bit to much money for an little piece of Aluminium.

Does anybody know why that rad got 3 connectors for the hoses? I would lay the rads in series not parallel.

So I quess the top mounted connector could be cut of and sealed by welding.

If anybody else has a better idea please let us know .

Does anybody has a answer to my rear brake disc problem?

[tanuki]

The trouble you have is tha standard downpipes and most aftermarket includIng BEET and JHA extend out from the block to far to allow large radiators.
The HRC system sits very close to the block allowing for a larger rad and or the split rad like the HRC item.

Are you running ram air?

I think even the NSR rad which I am hoping to fit will require a cut out at the top to allow for the scoop.

[Crazy_German]

Allright tanuki,

I understand the problem with the downpipes, thought about that too.
In your "spangly Bastard" project you use an ZX4R radiator. how does that type work? Or why do you search for an new engine cooling solution?

and yes when the build up comes to that point I will build in the HRC replica ram air from GF racing. I got it already at home but as you know it hast to be fittet to airbox when everything else is in place.

[tanuki]

if you continue on the ZX4 Rad doesnt fit the front wheel will hit under breaking hence why I got rid, I thne went onto the Fireblade RRW rad which worked perfectly however it was fine for standard fairings but was to wide for the Tyga ones.