A few NC24 questions

[connor73]

Hi, been lurking around for a while, so this is the first post, just picked up a bargain NC24, overall condition is great has a few issues that I hope to sort soon, collector box, rear can (not blowing so going to re-skin) plus a slight leak on the tank and the rear seat pad needs recovering. It came with a brand new front wheel in a box so I'm gonna get the back one powder coated to match. My questions are:

1. are the NC30 mirrors the same i.e. will they fit, the left hand side is a bit bashed up.
2. can you get a convertor for the speedo to convert from KPH to MPH
3. does anyone know the paint codes for the colours




Oh and I found this http://www.elliottmc.co.uk/bikes/6/bike_parts/list to, not sure if they have all the parts listed but some of the prices are a bit on the scary side.

This is hopefully the start of my NC stable, NC30 next!

[Cammo]

Neat bike!

Not sure about the answers to your questions, but I'm sure one of the resident nc24 experts will be along soon to set you straight.

There are cheaper places for parts than Elliots. Try David Silvers for new replacement parts.

[Neosophist]

Hi, been lurking around for a while, so this is the first post, just picked up a bargain NC24, overall condition is great has a few issues that I hope to sort soon, collector box, rear can (not blowing so going to re-skin) plus a slight leak on the tank and the rear seat pad needs recovering. It came with a brand new front wheel in a box so I'm gonna get the back one powder coated to match. My questions are:

1. are the NC30 mirrors the same i.e. will they fit, the left hand side is a bit bashed up.
2. can you get a convertor for the speedo to convert from KPH to MPH
3. does anyone know the paint codes for the colours


Oh and I found this http://www.elliottmc.co.uk/bikes/6/bike_parts/list to, not sure if they have all the parts listed but some of the prices are a bit on the scary side.

This is hopefully the start of my NC stable, NC30 next!

Hello and welcome.

1. Not too sure. measure the distance between the bolts and look at the copy mirror adds on ebay, i recall one of them giving the bolt spacings. If they line up they should fit, if you can see anything out of them is a different question

2. Yes. Motrax make one.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTRAX-MOTORCYCLE ... 1e60ac82ac

See above ^^

3. There is a sticky thread in the General Section (where you posted this called Paint Codes )

by Neosophist » Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:15 pm

SimNC30 wrote:
I called Dobles Honda with my paint code, and they told me that the code Honda put on the bikes isn't for an individual colour, but that it's relative to the paint scheme of the bike, so seemingly the only way to get correct paint is to get a bodyshop / paint specialist to match colours from an existing panel.

Indeed... My NC24's all have NH-196 written on them too.

After a bit of speculation I think thats the base coat color.. i think NH-196 is 'Honda Ross White'

VFR400Z NC21 Type 1: NH-138 (Shasta White)
VFR400Z NC21 Type 2: NH-1 (Black)
VFR400R NC21 Type 3: NC-138 (Shasta White)
VFR400R NC21 Type 4: NH-1 (Black)
VFR400R NC21 Type 5: NC-138 (Shasta White)
VFR400Z NC21 Type 6: NH-1 (Black)



VFR400R NC24 Type 7: NH-1 (Black)
VFR400R NC24 Type 8: NH-196 (Ross White)
VFR400R NC24 Type 9: NH-196 (Ross White)
VFR400R NC24 Type 10: NH-196 (Ross White)

-Edit-

Just had a look in my NC24 parts book as i'm sure there were paint codes in there... and there are :D These are translations from the book, the english names might be slightly different but as long as you have the correct paint code number you won't be far away

The NC21/NC24 paints are as follows

A73 - Gold (Labels)
B43L - Luster Blue (Seats)
NH1 - Black (Black NC21 / NC24 Base)
NH1L - Black (Seats)
NH138 - Shasta White (White NC21 Base)
NH146M - Accurate Silver (Metallic)
NH181M - Flame Alumite Silver (Metallic)
NH196 - Ross White (White NC24 Base)
NH197MU - Karakorum Gray (Metallic / Undercoat Required)
NH211M - Aumite Silver (Metallic / Bike Frame)
PB21L - Butler Blue (Seats)
PB22L - Lagoon Blue (Seats)
PB166 - Wisteria Blue
PB188M - Marshall Blue (Metallic)
R85L- Darling Red (Seats)
R110 - Monza Red
R134 - Fighting Red
Y106 - Clipper Yellow
YR138M - Meteor Gold (Metallic)

David Silver spares are cheaper than Elliots. If DSS don't have it in stock try lings.com.

Collector boxes are a pain and can easily write off one of these bikes financially. New ones are hard to find, there were some mild steel replacements floating around from New Zealand... but havn't heard anything for a few years. Honda ones are non-existant.. even 2nd hand ones on ebay can fetch £200.00

However, RCV4 makes some very high quality stainless steel replacements. They do occasionally pop up but be quick.

The downside is that Changing / Removing it means taking the engine out of the frame >.<

It's not as bad as it sounds. But can be a bit daunting and if you need to pay somebody to do it will cost mega bucks.

The bike looks clean. However the front discs don't look right..

If i'm right they look like non-floaters (NC21 style)



This is an NC24 'floating' disc.. it's joined by rivets to the carrier.



This is an NC21 standard disc.. it's made as one piece.

In all honesty you won't notice much difference if they are non-floaters. Unless you brake like a demon constantly...

But just fyi...

Why use a two-piece "floating" disc assembly?
There are several reasons that a two-piece floating disc assembly is of benefit. First, by using an aluminum bell for the hub section of the disc saves a great deal of weight. Since this is both rotating and unsprung, it benefits the acceleration, braking, and handling of the vehicle. Secondly, it is better able to handle the large temperature changes that a brake disc experiences. During severe use, temperature variances become present in a one-piece disc and generally cause warping of the disc. This not only results in vibration of the vehicle, and pulsing of the brake pedal, but also pushes the pistons farther away from the disc. In a two-piece floating disc assembly, the iron disc heats up more uniformly, and the controlled float which is present allows for the differential expansion of the very hot brake disc, and the relatively cool aluminum bell. This allows the disc to be used under severe conditions without having a detrimental effect.

If you need to know anything else just ask.. :)

PS: They can become a bottomless pit of money , especially if neglected. Compared to the NC30 there not worth as much either on the market, so try not to get financially tied into it and think about if it is worth investing in it if you have to spend big time.

Being on here helps though as it is quite possible with the right advice to keep them on the road without having to spend big-time. And being a Honda there fairly bulletproof.

Suspension upgrades etc can be done but at a cost, since you already mention getting an NC30 as well personally i'd keep this one standard and save any extra cash to invest in that as you'll get a lot more for your money.

Hope you enjoy the bike!

[amorti]

I have a used but GWO "blue" converter as linked to going spare, £20 posted sound OK? Best to email me at aaron dot mortimer at gmail dot com, or I will likely miss your reply.

It's worth looking at http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/products.asp?cat=8 for your exhaust re-skin :)

[findoo]

NC30 mirrors won't fit the NC24 as they have 30mm spacing. You need to search for mirrors with 40mm spacing.

[Deadly_Viper]

Wemoto (www.wemoto.com) have lots of pattern parts, and are fairly priced too. They have mirrors on there too.

[spooky]

Wemoto (http://www.wemoto.com) have lots of pattern parts, and are fairly priced too. They have mirrors on there too.

Yeah but if you look at the info on them it states that the centres are 30 mm. so they won't fit.