Brake binding

[avinitboys]

Definately food for thought there. Have never noticed any pulsing through the lever so I think you could be right on that one. As for swapping out the whole wheel, I may give that a go although I've just sold my other NC so haven't got a spare at the mo. Bloody typical.
I personally think it's still the master cylinder as it all gets so hot so quickly coupled with the fact that the lever goes so hard, almost so much so that you cannot even pull it at all, and then returns to normal after a few minutes. Different master cylinder it is then!

[Morespeedvicar]

Hi. has it stil got its original brakelines and have they got creases or bulges in them? it happens more on car brakes sometimes the rubber lines colapse and wont let the fluid back to the master cyclinder.
Try undoing the bleed nipple (put a pipe on it first tho) if there binding and see if it releases them.
Cheers
Ian

[MexicanGringo]

You can check the evenness of the disks by simulating a dial gauge if u havnt got one. Think up some arrangement of a fine point secured to a block, like a nail, which is then secured to a fork body, get the point close to the disk and rotate 360' & check if u can see a noticeable difference. The more they heat up to that extent the more likely they are to warp..

[avinitboys]

Further observation..........rode the bike down to my work yard from home this morning, no more than 500 yards. Brakes were binding a little but nowhere near as bad as when a got home from the last little test ride last night. Left the bike out in the sun for a couple of hours and, how wierd is this, went to push it and it was stuck solid with the lever almost unmovable.
Whats all that about?
Oh and I have Hel brakelines and just about everything else in the brake system is new too! I think Dataracer could be spot on with thinking about binning the master cylinder. Thoughts?