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Drunkn Munky
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- Bike owned: NC30 MC21 TZR FZR GSXR RG MITO
- Location: Kent
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by Drunkn Munky » Mon Apr 18, 2011 9:15 pm
Its getting good now
You fitting the HRC carb tray thingy?
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reverse cylinder jim
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by reverse cylinder jim » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:26 pm
Yes mate gonna be running a tray. Not fitted it yet but think ive heard i will have to drop the top rad for it to fit though?
James
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Variablevalves suck
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- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:52 am
- Bike owned: GSXR Carb o'ring kits supplied
- Location: Stoke-on-trent
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by Variablevalves suck » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:42 pm
Great work, its coming along real nice.
Im still not getting this drilling and bolt fitting thing, is it the air feed to the pilot system or main jet air system that you fit the bolt to?
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Drunkn Munky
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- Posts: 6313
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- Bike owned: NC30 MC21 TZR FZR GSXR RG MITO
- Location: Kent
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by Drunkn Munky » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:57 pm
No you dont need to drop the rad for the tray i dont think although it wont hurt to get a bit more air in.
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Cammo
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- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
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by Cammo » Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:39 am
reverse cylinder jim wrote:Now the proper HRC stacks have a little flap that covers a little brass air tube and mine wont have this so i then tapped the tube to take a 6mm bolt. The bolt will have a 3mm (for starters) hole through the middle to restrict airflow. Once up and running i will bring sets of bolts with me to the dyno with various sized holes in them (2,2.5,3.5 etc) to see what size the bike runs best with. Obviously i tapped the holes with the carbs upside down so the brass swarf doesn't enter the carbs.
Nice work!
The smaller the better in respect to the hole in the air jet, I think try 2.0mm to start with on the dyno and work on that. It might be worth having a 1.5mm orifice available also.
All sizes will work. However it's preferable to just use the smallest size (as it will give less noticeable fuelling changes when the transition from needle to main jet occurs) and change the main jets to suit this chosen air jet size. Some people block it up entirely.
I'm interested to hear how it goes!
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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Smev
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- Bike owned: NC30 of course
- Location: The Mighty Cornwall :-)
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by Smev » Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:49 am
Drunkn Munky wrote:No you dont need to drop the rad for the tray i dont think although it wont hurt to get a bit more air in.
No need to drop the rads - I have a C/F HRC air tray, and it fits on above the Rick O rads without any problem

Mister Donut Rep NC30
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reverse cylinder jim
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by reverse cylinder jim » Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:44 pm
Cammo wrote:reverse cylinder jim wrote:Now the proper HRC stacks have a little flap that covers a little brass air tube and mine wont have this so i then tapped the tube to take a 6mm bolt. The bolt will have a 3mm (for starters) hole through the middle to restrict airflow. Once up and running i will bring sets of bolts with me to the dyno with various sized holes in them (2,2.5,3.5 etc) to see what size the bike runs best with. Obviously i tapped the holes with the carbs upside down so the brass swarf doesn't enter the carbs.
Nice work!
The smaller the better in respect to the hole in the air jet, I think try 2.0mm to start with on the dyno and work on that. It might be worth having a 1.5mm orifice available also.
All sizes will work. However it's preferable to just use the smallest size (as it will give less noticeable fuelling changes when the transition from needle to main jet occurs) and change the main jets to suit this chosen air jet size. Some people block it up entirely.
I'm interested to hear how it goes!
Thankyou for the info Cammo, ive not drilled the bolts yet so will drill the first set 2mm and go from there.
The settings im going to run first off will be 145 mains, 40 pilots, 4 extra holes in the imulsion tubes and 8ZK needles with maybe a 0.5 shim under them. Also got a set of curved bottom NC24 slides so might also throw these in for good measure. Would you say this was a good starting point to work from?
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reverse cylinder jim
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by reverse cylinder jim » Sun May 01, 2011 1:53 pm
A little update.
Fired the bike up yesterday, was really nervous but all seems well
I ran the bike up with the standard carbs for the moment just to see how everything is and seems very responsive and the cam chatter makes the bike sound evil

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Cammo
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by Cammo » Mon May 02, 2011 3:14 am
reverse cylinder jim wrote:Thankyou for the info Cammo, ive not drilled the bolts yet so will drill the first set 2mm and go from there.
The settings im going to run first off will be 145 mains, 40 pilots, 4 extra holes in the imulsion tubes and 8ZK needles with maybe a 0.5 shim under them. Also got a set of curved bottom NC24 slides so might also throw these in for good measure. Would you say this was a good starting point to work from?
Yeah that carb setup sounds good, although I'm not too sure exactly on what mains you'll end up needing.
Pilot screws at 1.5 turns out will be a good starting point also.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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reverse cylinder jim
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by reverse cylinder jim » Sat May 28, 2011 7:45 pm
Not had any chance to work on the bike lately due to my other bikes needing work but will have to get my backside into gear due to the up and coming trackday on the 13th.
Not sure if it needed it but today i decided to cover the air tray in reflective tape to try and reflect heat away from the carbs. Probably wont make any difference but at least im getting on with it again.
