FZR RRSP 3TJ7

[willandrip]

Worth pulling the guts out the caps and cleaning/retesting. ?

[dobbslc]

Are the caps 5K ohms ones? If they are you might need to test with a different setting on your meter maybe 10K Ohms.

Not sure what the FZR is meant to have fitted.

[Drunkn Munky]

Caps look to be sealed units so pulling them apart without wrecking them doesn't look possible.

The manual states the following for resistance values,

Primary 1.8 - 2.2
Secondary 9.6 - 14.4

My results are,

Coil 1/4
Primary 2.2
Secondary 13.17

Coil 2/3
Primary 2.2
Secondary 13.06

I cant find any testing procedure in the manual so have tested them as i do on a NC and setting the multimeter to the K setting for the secondary test.
When testing with the cap on i get a brief split second flicker of resistance show up on the tester of around 18 to 19, the contacts inside the caps are not hard to reach so its not a case of getting a bad connection with the tester im sure they've just broken down inside as the contacts still look clean.

[willandrip]

On genuine Yam caps; the brass piece that slips over the plug "nipple" is slotted and unscrews revealing the resistor
itself and a spring.. Similar to this ;


Knew this was somewhere;







Edited for additions.

[Drunkn Munky]

^^^^ Nice one

I was testing the primary and secondary resistance correctly but didnt do the test on the cap itself, testing the cap as shown in the top pic and all caps are within spec just one is higher than the others. So i guess the coils and caps are fine then, back to square one


But now after dismantling and reassembling none of them give a reading This bike will be the death of me! Im gunna go do some gardening instead

[willandrip]

Clean off the corrosion; You have disturbed the resistors; it was probably only the corrosion shorting that gave the reading.
Use fine grit papers. You can replace the resistor with a short piece of metal (nail). It will suffice to give a good spark

I have never known the actual resistor to fail.

I hate gardening but am reseeding a wilderness today. (was a lawn 2 years ago) !

[willandrip]

Right; coz I am a stubborn ( read; "hard" ) bastard;

I went out and tried some spare caps;

Same result as Drunken; no resistance before being stripped though on these .( open circuit)
Cleaned the spring, resistor and end clip nipple thing and tested each individually. small or no resistance on the spring and nipple. Resistor was 10k ish.
The cap itself was next.
Piece of welding rod as a probe down the guts; open circuit, bastard.
So wiggle probe to scratch a clean surface into the inside of the cap ; Fail .
Torch out; look down inside; Aha; the inside is shaped so the spring sits on a tiny spigot;
You cannot physically get owt down to clean it.
But........... its brass !...... so......? and I kid you not ;
sorted in 2 minutes; pour a teaspoon of vinegar inside the cap, ratch about with the welding rod, rinse out the vinegar , dry the cap
and the jobs a good un.
Cap reassembled and back in spec.

Was it a fluke ?.... no I did two!

[Drunkn Munky]

Top work pal, once ive finished destroying the garden i shall give this a try but im doubtful its going to get the bike running as they were in spec before i dismantled them and they were sparking.

I did clean the spring up before dismantling but nothing else, should i have clean anything else? Also in the picture above do i have all the components in the right order? as to get them out you have to tip the cap up then everything just falls out at the same time

May order a new battery as its been on charge since this morning and still isnt fully charged although it has no trouble turning the bike over

[willandrip]

Put the spring in first; it locates over the internal spigot.
mine did not have the tiny little cap bit but on others I have it goes between the spring and the resistor.

Spring > little cap > resistor > nipple. Just like your pic.

Test all the bits separately; clean off the corrosion from where each part contacts the next.(just the ends on the resistor; it has a coating around the circumference for some reason )
Digital meters are proper fussy when on Ohms .Unseen corrosion on components just like a low battery in the meter will have you pulling hair out.

See; it may be you have insufficient voltage to start.
Yamahas need lots of voltage at the TCI for it to operate.
I remember something like sub 11 volts and they don't fire.
Pulling plugs out to check for spark when spinning over engines reduces the compression and less voltage is required by the starter leaving enough to produce a spark from the TCI. You think all is well.

Put the plug (s) back in and it won't fire..... but really the increased load on the starter with the plugs back in has used up all the voltage; there is insufficient to fire the plugs.

Always check with known plugs for spark with a set remaining in the engine.
I always use heavy jump leads from a big battery to start reluctant motors.
The extra voltage available increases cranking speed and thus compression and fuel atomization.
I cannot stress this enough..... Boris will concur. !
Have you got starting fluid ?; it makes such a difference for a motor that has been stood.

I would buy jump leads and ether before a battery !

Addition; Resistor plugs and caps only really come into play at medium to high rpm.
The old days of needing them to prevent TV radio interference are gone since everything went digital.
There main job now is to prevent ignition misfire at high rpm where the TCI signal is interfered with.

You can start and run a FZR engine with no cap fitted whatsoever and the lead just pushed over the plug threaded end if the leads are long enough !

[Drunkn Munky]

Cheers for the info its been very helpful but after numerous attempts to bring the old caps back to life a couple of them didnt want to play ball so looked at a new set of OEM caps, £160! then saw a set of Dynacoils with taylor leads and caps for £180 so guess which i got

Will attempt to get it started tomorrow using the van battery so it has plenty of juice