My GK76a winter service/tidy-up project.

[Maelstrom]

When the video starts they are all quite close, particularly since you are not using mercury. Hg = inches of mercury as I am sure you know.
Then the rpm drops.
Did it drop because of something you did or was it sitting up at 2800rpm by itself?
If it was staying at that rpm by itself then wind your idle mixture screws out by, say 1/2 turn, and try again.

[wullie3xv9]

I raised & lowered the idle rpm using the adjuster wheel under the middle of the carb's.

[wullie3xv9]

Now then, folks. Time for a quick update. I finally got some time yesterday to run the bike & spray some WD40 about the outside of No.1 cylinders carb & inlet rubbers & also at the external brass choke feed pipe, new choke plunger seal, the mixture screw aperture & around the plastic carb top. The idle rpm didn't rise at any point, so if there IS an air leak it must be an internal one!

I also had another go at adjusting the four mixture screws & balancing the carb's again, this time with success as I now have an engine that idles smooth & steady! I've FINALLY managed to get rid of the lumpiness/"hunting"!!
To achieve this I have No.1 cyl's mixture screw set at 3 & 3/4 turns out, but cylinders 2,3 & 4's are set at 2 & 3/4 turns out.

Set like this it starts straight off the button, (no throttle applied), settles quickly into a smooth steady idle, (1100 rpm), picks up cleanly when the throttle is "blipped" & the rpm drops without "hanging" or "dipping" below the set idle speed.
( It does this with the temp gauge needle just on & also half way through the white NORMAL zone).

I ordered a Kit A set of internal seals from Blair/LiteTek, (which were delivered on Saturday morning), but I'll leave fitting them for now as work is very busy at the mo & we're short staffed ! (The bike's still at work).
I'm in the middle of tidying up all the bodywork which I'm doing at home on my days off.
Once I have the fuel tank & all the bodywork refitted I can put a few miles on it & see how the carburation is higher up the rev range. If I have to change any of the internal jets I'll fit the seal kit when I have the carb's out to replace them.

That's all for now folks. Bye for now.

Wullie.

[Maelstrom]

Woohoo!
Perseverance pays off, you have to be happy with that.

[wullie3xv9]

Lol. Thanks Blair & yes, perseverance payed off in the end. Still got your seal Kit A to fit though which should sort it out once & for all. Many thanks for all your help & advice on sorting out & adjusting my set of carb's, it's much appreciated. Really looking forward to finishing it off & riding the thing now as I gave it a few BIG handfuls of rev's to clear it's throat yesterday & the open SCORPION can sounds great at 10,000 - 12,000 rpm !!

[Variablevalves suck]

You will never get it spot on unless you swap out the thermostat.
The Suzi one opens at too low a temperature, around 75deg, its a known problem with a load of Suzi's from said period, and gives lumpy tick over and a flat spot just as you give it throttle.
The fix id to put a warmer thermostat in, 80 + deg, think I fitted a cbr600f to mine.

Not cheap at £35 but if you pick up a second hand housing with the thermostat still in from ebay its cheap and makes the bike much smoother.

[wullie3xv9]

Thanks for that VVS, but I fitted a new OEM SV650 thermostat just after I bought the bike back in Sept. '13 after reading through old posts. At the time Robinsons Foundry had them on offer so it was just under £12 quid to buy.
They're set to open at 82 deg. C, but if the bike still runs too cool due to me living in the "frozen North" then I'll buy & fit one from a CBR 600 F3 (??) that opens at 86 deg. C.

[Variablevalves suck]

Well done with the bike revision, plenty of little gems to be found if you dig.

Should help a little as they were never quite right on the low thermostat.

[wullie3xv9]

TADAAAAAA !!! Finally folks, here's the old git with (nearly) all its tidier clothes on !!







I've been spending my days off lately tidying up the fairing panels I didn't replace with touch up paint & T-cut/polish & also used plastic polish on the screen, headlight cover, rear light & indicator lenses.
It just needs its (new) L/H belly panel fitted & some fuel put in the tank & it's good to go !!
The replacement L/H belly panel I bought had threaded recepticle's (for screws) fitted when they should be Dzus type recepticle's , so I've removed them all so I can fit the OEM Dzus type to the replacement. I got six pop rivets from my mate Mike's stash tonight so I'll get the panel sorted out & fitted during the week.
After that all that's left to do is get it M.O.T.'ed, ( U.K. road-worthiness test), road taxed, (if it passes its M.O.T. ) & then get some miles on it to see how much I've cocked up the carburation as a result of fitting the K & N filter kit & stainless downpipes!

Right! Now I've finally cracked this project I better start getting my 3XV's engine bolted back together !!
Spring's not too far away.

Bye for now.

Wullie.

[donk]

You've done a tidy job there it looks really good. I hope it runs ok for you with those headers .I'm going to get a set this week now I've got the cash to do them