Hi all
I want to upgrade my RRSP with a BDK air box.
So far I have understand, it is important to seal the box very exact.

What is the best way to seal the carb inlet rubbers with the air box?
What was your best experience to seal the duct with the box?
Is there any air filter, foam rubber, which I can buy to fit it for myself?

Can you really achieve a RAM air effect?

THX

There's a whole debate about ram air and if it works or not. What really seems to happen is the airbox volume is increased so the carbs have more air ....

The bdk box is sealed to the fuel tank with a foam strip ... most tray type airboxes do that. I think the seal around the carb stubs might be when the carbs go in the stubs expand a bit but you could use heat proof silicon to seal it and the same with the snorkel.

This is a race upgrade for a race bike ... not for a road bike and you have to cut the fairing to fit it.

I've got one stashed away somewhere but never bothered fitting it.
As far as I can tell once it's on you can't reach the clips that secure the carbs to the inlet rubbers so rely on a push fit.....
It comes with a foam filter.
I've also got a kit Yamaha one that's different, it has a lid like standard but holes in the bottom for ram air tubes. Both types have tubes that go under the bottom yoke and over the MODIFIED radiator. You've got to flatten the top of a standard one to fit it all.
If your not racing I wouldn't bother to be honest. My bike has no air box, pod filtered carbs, runs well and will keep a year 2000 R6 honest.

I use my 3TJs on the racetrack only!

one of my 3TJ stays close to stock, just single air filtes, race exhaust, and jetted on a dyno.

But the scond one (SP) should be impoved more, additional: BDK airbox, minimum harness, removed generator and added a adjustable advance Light Weight Rotor (BDK), alu sub frames, . . .
al this is alredy done, except the airbox, I'm little afraid to do something wrong and it is becoming worse then stock. ???

and I would like to have a replacment filter, so looking for an option, additional, if this changes are successful, I have a larger winter project with the 3rd 3TJ.

THX

The BDK version should have some sort of back up from BDK - I think they publish the base carb settings for it which is useful

Hylomar is a decant sealant, I've used it in place of gaskets when they tear and what not, brilliant stuff it withstands temperatures upto something like 250 degrees and it's fuel resistant

ArronA wrote:Hylomar is a decant sealant, I've used it in place of gaskets when they tear and what not, brilliant stuff it withstands temperatures upto something like 250 degrees and it's fuel resistant

It doesn't set though. You want something that will take up movement, form a seal and be self supporting. Instant gasket fills a gap but is supported by the 2 surfaces

Hi,
THX for all ideas; that's what I need, to get an idea how to handle it.

for the gap between intake rubber an air box, I was thinking about DIRKO D or Hylomar as well.
But suspect now, that a sanitary silicon (good quality) handles better with temperature movement and vibrations (???)
THX evil;

For the sealing air box and snorkel, it should be removable, so think about a "D profile rubber" to have enough movement and a sealing the air as well.

Sealing air box and tank: I take the bdk included rubber tape.

The main goal should be, to get a closed air box, to collect a little pressure of air.
Or, do you think, the sealing is not so important, because, there will be no pressure. ???
Is the advantage just a big volume with "quiet" air don’t care too much on sealing?

Please, further comments are very welcome.

Here is some info about Ram Air Systems you might find Interesting

http://www.sportrider.com/ram-air-whats-it-worth

From what I've read it only starts to make much of a difference above 100mph when theres enough fast air to slow it down an increase pressure. And its always better to have a small gain than a small loss......As long as you can get the fueling right which will be the hard bit.