Overhauling the Clutch

[pearson*]

Among other problems, I've been getting clutch slip over the past few months and it just seems to be getting worse. I've tried adjusting the clutch lever itself and checking over the mechanism inside the sproket cover just to make sure it wasn't getting partially stuck when I let go of the lever or anything... didn't work.

So, from what I understand it's a fairly painless job, drain for oil, dissasemble clutch, replace in the same order with new friction pads and springs.

Question is, I've seen friction plate sets and full clutch kits. From what I can tell, clutch kits have the steel plates in with them aswell. Is it worth replacing these as well, or is the likelyhood that when I do this, the steel plates are unlikely to have much wrong with them?

If it helps, its an 17000 mile (ish) bike, and im pretty sure the clutch hasn't been changed since it was shipped over here due to it only being used for 2 years then stored untill I bought it.

Also, EBC... good? and if so, is there any difference between 3tj1 and 3tj2 clutch kits?

[Evilchicken0]

As you say it's a fairly painless job but get a clutch holding tool.
EBC are ok I think, you have to soak the plate in clean engine oil for at least 24 hours before fitting.
Check the steel plates aren't dicoloured - if they are then replace them.
You need a torque wrench that does light stuff 8 or 10 for the clutch spring bolts - clean those bolts in petrol to get the oil off the threads and clean the holes too - otherwise the torque will be out.
Look for the mark on the inner basket it's on the outside - point it to the top before you start.
You need a new clutch case gasket.
You can do this on the sidestand, you don't need to drop the oil but it's a good idea

[roland jones]

3TJ2 is the Sports Production model with one extra plate (8 steel and 9 fibre vs 7 steel and 8 fibre on 3TJ1) and I think upgraded springs. The 3TJ1 kit won't fit a 3TJ2 - or it will fit but you will have even more clutch slip as the stack height will be a plate or two out!

[pearson*]

This could well be me being a little stupid but i'm guessing this is the right kit:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SRK006-EBC-Co ... 5663cddf9c

and this is the wrong one (for the 3tj2):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZR-40 ... 23163d27ba

I can't seem to find a SRK006 kit without the steel plates for less than £85 so I guess for the same price, I may as well just get one with the steel plates included to save me any hassle getting them if I need too.

[Evilchicken0]

Srk only have steel plate, ebc do another kit with no steels.

[pearson*]

I tried to find them, but I can only find people that stock the 3tj2+ versions, no-one seems to stock just the friction plates for the 3tj1

[hunter]

Try Fowlers,You will need to give them the frame number.

[Evilchicken0]

It might be a little simplistic but don't you just leave out one of the plates ?

[pearson*]

I found these sold for £85 roughly

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycl ... mplete-kit

When I called Fowlers, it was looking at around £140-£150 for just the friction plates and springs.

The EBC Heavy Duty friction plates cost around £50 incl postage, and then the srpings another £17 ontop of that.

For £15, I'm just going to order the full set, then I've got the steels if I need them and peace of mind that the stack height should match up properly.

[willandrip]

You could have had Genuine Yamaha frictions for £40.40 delivered ;

7x here; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-GENUIN ... 43c8db2ca3

1x here; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-DT200- ... 43c91fe993

They are all the same plate and fit scores of models.

The steels ( unless seriously misused by a numpty) would only require a scuff up with a scotch pad.

Springs will last far in excess of the very low (17k) miles you have on your bike.

Why have you not measured the parts to see if they are within tolerence ?; it is a very simple task; a digital vernier suitable for the job costs about £10.

You don't need a clutch drum holding tool; the centre basket nut does not require removal for plate replacement.
The outer plate fixing screws are noted for failure if any more than 6ft /lbs is applied (8N/m) so go carefully.

I would suggest that using the correct mineral oil and checking the wear limits of the components before replacement
would have been a cost effective solution. The pushrod clearance is the critical operation in this repair.