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R6 Downpipes for 3tj

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:04 pm
by Tomahawk
Hi sorry this may have been posted loads before but i cant seem to find it.
anyway how would you go about getting r6 downpipes to fit a fzr 400 3tj. /at the moment my exup doesnt seem to work so i thought i might aswell get some r6 downpipes. is it very easy? my dads a welder so im guessing that may come to my advantage.
cheers tom

Re: R6 Downpipes for 3tj

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:46 pm
by Evilchicken0
It's not pretty - they need to be cut and shut

Re: R6 Downpipes for 3tj

Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 11:20 pm
by Tomahawk
it was only a thought really as my dad doesnt think the exup is opening. should it open when you turn the ignition on and it sucks the petrol through and makes the buzzing noise haha. is this part ment to move when you turn the ignition on.Image my dad thought it should be i dont have a clue? if the exup is broken could that be the cause of my flat spot and bad running?
sorry for all the questions im trying to learn the bike :grin:
cheers

Re: R6 Downpipes for 3tj

Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 11:43 am
by Evilchicken0
The exup is on the left side in front of the side stand. It's in the exhaust pipes where the four down pipes join and has a chrome cover over it. There are two cables that go into the back and if you take off the cover you'll see a pulley, when you turn the ignition on the pulley should move back and forward with a "weep weep" noise.
Have a look at this and get back to us, if the valve is stuck then yes that will affect the running the way you say.

Re: R6 Downpipes for 3tj

Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:21 am
by nick
Its not uncommon for valve to play up. It maybe just a simple case of a baddly adjusted cable, or it may be that the valve is seized or the servo that operates it is faulty.

As Boris has said, take the chrome cover off (bolts on these are a bugger to undo so be carefull) and take a look at the pully. If it fails to turn when the ignition is switched on then check to see if the cables are too slack. If the cables are ok, then follow them back to the servo that operates them and see if that is working when you switch on the ignition.

If they all seem to be ok then its likely the valve is stuck. You can get to it by undoing the bolts that hold it into the manifold (again these bolts will be difficult to shift).

I have a set of downpipes with a good valve and a servo motor with cables if you need any parts :peace: