I REALLY need someone to help me out with my electrics. I know next to nothing about them, but what i do know is that i have no spark

I have a full cat loom, cdi, coils etc........

I've junked the left hand switch gear so no clutch switch thingy and i will also be ditching the side stand switch. After having fun and games just getting it to turn over (naff battery), i'm now completely stumped. I've checked everything i can think of and with a multimeter i have done all the tests from the haynes manual to check for resistance and continuity in various bits and bobs.

I've borrowed a known working cdi, coils, rectifier, HT leads and caps but im still getting nothing. Fuses are all good, everything is plugged in where it should be. I'm using a 400 ignition switch at the moment with just the brown and red plugged in.

When you turn on the ignition the neutral light comes on, the tacho dances the 8k boogey (which i know how to sort) and the fuel pump chugs away for a bit. Prod the starter and she turnbs over no probs, oil light comes on as you'd expect. And that is it!!!!!

I'm absolutely sick of it, i wish i'd never even started but now there is no going back

Either i'm missing the bleedin' obvious or there is something else left to check

when you say you've junked the clutch and sidestand switches .. do you mean that you've also shorted out the connectors on the loom to fool the bike into thinking that they are not there too??

Sorry if I'm pointing out the bleeding obvious .......but it does sound like that to me(and has happened to me!! ;o)

OK - deep breathe time.

The engine turns over - so it's not a kill switch.
The coils CDI etc are known so we can rule them out too.
So I have to assume it's a wiring thing. When I put the Bimota back together I got a similar thing - engine turns no spark, mine turned out to be the timing points were connected wrongly (The wires on the loom don't match). Find the wires from the points on the crankshaft and trace them to the connector then check those wires go into the CDI. Now check the (low tension) wires back from the coils to the CDI and then check those wires against the wiring diagram.
The points have to have a psoative and negative to them use an old indicator to show a wire is live.
The ignition switch might not be transimitting the live current to the right wires. It might be there are 2 circiuts - I noticed FZR600 3HE switches are different to 400 3EN2 check the wires are live with the switch on.
Lastly have a look at the clutch sensor on the wiring diagram and join the two wires so it acts like the switch is closed - I don't expect it to make a difference because the engine turns over.

I know this is obvious but it hasn't been mentioned yet...

You've checked the coils, leads, cdi, rect etc.

Have you checked the spark plugs?

Sorry for stating the obvious, but you never know... people forget

check the alternator wire that comes from the fly wheel casing.take off the alternator cover and check the lead from the flywheel where it is mounted to the casing with a little plastic strap and two screws.my fly wheel had chafed thru one or both wires (cant remeber).i kinow of another forum member who had the same problem and its dead easy to fix.might not be the problem but worth checking as i was pulling my hair out trying to work it out!

SHE LIVES!!!!!!

Thanks for all your advice guys, tuns out that the 400 ignition switch doesn't have all the connections needed to get it to run. Borrowed a mates cat switch and hey presto!

1 cat ignition switch added to the 'need to buy' list.......

Cool beans!!!

Bet your a happy bunny now

Words cannot describe...........

IVE GOT A T/Cat ignition switch with key from a 20000 mile old bike i used as a donor-good nick.pm me if you still need one.