Slight knocking noise.

[Tomahawk]

My have found what the problem is. slack cam chains :/ will be getting then tightened is there any specific way to tighten it to i know i need to get the tensioner tool but don't know what to tighten it too. any help please.
cheers tom

[Evilchicken0]

The tensoiner should be automatic. It's on the back of the engine in the middle.
It could be that the tensioner has stopped ... well tensioning.
One nut alters the tension and the bigger is the locknut ... follow the manual to retension the chain (some bikes need to run the engine).

[Tomahawk]

Thanks for that. one problem is i dont have a manual. i have th owners manual will it tell you in that? i cant seem to find a service manual anywhere. also is it easy to get to the cam tensioner. do you have to take the tank and fairing off?
cheers tom

[Evilchicken0]

You'll need the fairings off and probably the tank, then it's below the carbs.

I thought there was an RRSP manual - that will do because they're more or less the same engine.
Here's an ebay auction for a tensioner http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-FZR400RR-3 ... 20adb82c95 - it looks like you just use the bolt at the end ... but do it up "tight" or you put to much pressure on the cam chain.

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

yeah there is and it's here
http://www.commline.com/FZR/400/MANUAL/
you'll probably want the
FZR400SP1991_3TJ-ME1.PDF
and
FZR400RR1992_3TJ-AE1.PDF
the rr manual being a supplement with all the info that's different between the 2

[Tomahawk]

cheers for posting the manual. still having big problems with the bike. have put the new tank on which is nice but i think my carbs may be fucked as it still has a big flat spot and runs really bad under 7000 revs if i pull away with under 3000 revs it trys to stall and starts jumping.
striped and cleaned the carbs before the new tank went on and cleaned all the fuel lines i cant seem to find the problem it really frustrating me. any advice or help will be appreciated or some carbs :)
cheers tom

[Evilchicken0]

It sounds like the idle jets or it could the needles / emusion tubes.

If your happy that everything is ok and as it should be then it's probably best to take it to a dyno to be set up. when you do it give them a max budget so they don't run away with it all. A dyno is good because they can dyagnose something quite quickly, the problem with carbs is that you can chase a problem all over the place and still not get it right.

[Tomahawk]

its idle's fine now which was the problem before and the carbs have just got gradually worse now. and with the dyno i have no money at the moment and with being at college 5 days a week cant really work loads at the moment.

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

as evil said carbs are a law unto themselves, there is just so much in em
having said that i would check out the carbs (again) and use the manual to make sure all the jet's are standard, mains, pilots, air the lot, the needle height setting and also the float height, check out the diaphragm very carefully making sure there are no pin holes in em (spray em with carb cleaner if there's a pinhole the cleaner will evaporate form around it quicker than the rest of the rubber ) also check the gaskets and O rings
and finally check the carb manifold boots (the black rubbers between the carbs and manifold) for signs of perishing and cracks if your getting air through em it will cause all sorts of trouble also make sure the screws near the bottom of the boots are done up tight (these are where you put the tubes for balancing the carbs)
failing that, i'm afraid evils right, and you may just have to bite the bullet and give it a dyno run

[Evilchicken0]

The idle jets control running up to 6000 revs and make sure the airbox is on properly