Clutch not working, rattling sound after valve check

[Strikmabill]

Well I basically thought the clutch worked a whole different way than it does so I thought that center pin should stay in place when it actually pops and pushes the plate with the springs. I think it's fair to say I'm learning a lot with my tj Then I must have pushed the selector fork(?) out when I put the sprocket cover back on and it wasn't gearing, after a bit of messing with it I got it in place and it now goes through all the gears. So now I guess I'm only stuck with an electrical problem, it burns the head fuse from time to time. Will charge the battery and take it from there. By now valves are checked, clutch plates and springs are still good, fuel pump and exup work fine, carbs are balanced so hopefully I'll be burning some rubber again soon (been out of comission for 3-4 months now).

PS: My tj had a single bulb frontlight and I replaced it with a dual bulb. Could that cause the head fuse to burn?

[White2505]

if your blowing the main fuse my favourite for this would be a blown regulator which has in turn fried your battery.

if you fit a new battery with a fried regulator it'll just eat your new battery very quickly indeed.

ask me how I know

I found something at that time that said how to test the regulator I'll have a dig around and see if I can find it.

[White2505]

here you go.

Fit a new battery and then follow this guide to make sure the regulator is working properly.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[sparkles]

with the 3he (600) the rectifiers are known to over heat and these are 4 pins the solution is to fit a 5 pin one from a foxeye (4jh) or thundercat as there the same and with a little bit of rewiring it can be done quiet easierly

This is a picture of the 5 pin one which is on ebay

[Evilchicken0]

3TJ reg recs don't really die that often so you could just replace the part with little or no worry.
You will need to check the wiring hasn't been fried cos that will raise the resistance and you'll get the same problem again.

[Strikmabill]

I'll check the wiring this week and report back. Thanks for all your help. Cheers.

[Strikmabill]

if your blowing the main fuse my favourite for this would be a blown regulator which has in turn fried your battery.

if you fit a new battery with a fried regulator it'll just eat your new battery very quickly indeed.

ask me how I know

I found something at that time that said how to test the regulator I'll have a dig around and see if I can find it.

It keeps blowing the head fuse (20A) not the main one (30A)

[Evilchicken0]

Sounds like it's earthing out somewhere - check the wires haven't rubbed on something and touch the frame / subframe / or a bolt. Also check the bulb connector and the bulb wattage

[Strikmabill]

Alright, this is gonna be long. So I tried to follow the guide to check what was wrong and got stuck at the very first step. My bike only runs when connected to another battery, as soon as I remove the jumper cables it stalls. Had the battery charge over night and it puts out 12.75V



but when I try to start the bike it doesn't do anything except non-stop beeping(?) from this



I decided to spray all connectors with wd-40 and one of the 4 connectors on the reg had that white corroded dust on it. Then I opened this one which had all 3 covered in white rust so i cleaned and sanded them a bit.



Now I know these white wires go to the regulator, and only one of them has electricity reaching the black connector that goes on the regulator.

I also noticed something else

I have no ideia where this is from or what should be connected here



And do all your fuse boxes look like this?





(I know it's suppost to be 20A fuse but it was the only one I had and it was just for testing)

Aren't there any wires missing?
Now what should I do? Replace those white wires connecting to the regulator and take it from there?
The bike just blew the lights, now it doesn't even run.
Thanks

[Taggyd]

them relays is expensive!