3TJ RR SP clutch into an RR...? Will it go?

[jwer23]

could only get ebc ones... wll just have to hope they work!

[jwer23]

Cheers for the contributions, quick update on this, have tried new ebc plates and springs and still getting slip, I wonder whether my oil is ok? I'm using Motul 15/50 semi synthetic on recommendation from Jeff bell who tuned the bike, so surely this should be ok?

My local supplier could only get ebc clutch bits so maybe I should try a whole new Barnett drag spec set, on recommendation from kiyoshi? Are these easy to find? And will it be too jerky for downshifts?
I'm a little worried that I'll have to shell out for a new setup only to find the whole basket will need replaced as it's still slipping... Is it likely my basket could be knackered? Will welding an outer ring on make much difference?

The slip is worst for about the first five laps usually, then will get better as race goes on... Perhaps it needs heat to fully engage? I would think that poor adjustment would cause the slip to get worse not better as things heat up....?
Thanks again! :-)

[dobbslc]

I think you will need to get that sp basket along with the Barnett clutch kit, my bike used to get better after a few laps too possibly things expanding with the heat.
A good second hand sp clutch will be cheaper than banding your old rr one. That extra plate adds about 10% more surface area to the clutch pack.

[4StrokePete]

EBC springs are not good. I have tried them. I used new standard springs with a 1mm washer under each spring, with good result. This was on a tuned race bike, with standard 3TJ RR clutch, using the same oil as you.
It is also critical that you have the screw and adjuster on the sprocket cover adjusted correctly.

[jwer23]

Can you confirm please how to adjust the screw type actuator in the sprocket cover? I thought it felt ok at the lever with plenty of free play, but I want to back off the pushrod just to check? However when trying to loosen the nut it is only turning the actuator inwards (disengaging the clutch) and not actually slackening off?
Am I loosening the correct way (anticlockwise!) or should the Phillips head pushrod move without undoing the nut? Both seem soild!!
if this will solve the slip without having to buy a new clutch I'm onto a winner...!
Thanks

[4StrokePete]

Can you confirm please how to adjust the screw type actuator in the sprocket cover? I thought it felt ok at the lever with plenty of free play, but I want to back off the pushrod just to check? However when trying to loosen the nut it is only turning the actuator inwards (disengaging the clutch) and not actually slackening off?
Am I loosening the correct way (anticlockwise!) or should the Phillips head pushrod move without undoing the nut? Both seem soild!!
if this will solve the slip without having to buy a new clutch I'm onto a winner...!
Thanks

It is a funny setup, in that even if you have lots of free play at the lever, it can still have no free play at the actuator.
But first you must remove the EBC springs and throw them in the rubbish. Try it again with the standard springs first, if thats all you have.
Yes the nut on the actuator is normal thread, anticlockwise to undo. I use a socket. It will turn for about 1/4 of a turn before the nut loosens. As like you said this is disengaging the clutch. It may make a noise when the nut loosens, dont worry you wont break anything.
Adjust the cable adjuster at the clutch lever, to around halfway.
Unscrew the Phillips head pushrod, also normal thread, screw back in until to feel it make contact. Then unscrew, back it off, 1/4 of a turn. This is the tricky part, use a spanner to tighten the locknut without turning the Phillips head pushrod.
Use some pliers to grab the locknut to feel if it is still loose, has movement. If ok then adjust cable at the clutch lever.
If all good take it for a test ride.

[dobbslc]

I haven't done mine for a while but think you mean the rod is moving with the nut when you turn it???
I hold the rod with a screw driver and use a 10mm (I think) spanner to undo the nut.
Adjust it it up so it's just touching home then back it off 1/2 a turn. This allows the rod to expand a bit when hot without bottoming out again. Make sure the rod is not bent and moves in & out freely,
I think there should be a ball bearing in there as well to allow free movment. I will check the drawing I've got.
Dobbs.

[jwer23]

Great advice, cheers!

[blueranger]

Yes the sp clutch wil fit but need basket to fit ..