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Wacko Jacko
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by Wacko Jacko » Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:47 pm
Guys,
I'm pulling my hair out i bought a Front brake disc off ebay to replace a warped disc only to find this 1 was also warped (Not Happy

). Refund!
To make matters worse i managed to shear a brake caliper bolt with a torque wrench!
IMG]
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt82 ... G_0295.jpg[/IMG]
Any ideas how i can remove the stud? The caliper cannot be removed as it snapped inside the caliper mount hole.
Any1 got a good straight disc for sale aswell?
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Wacko Jacko
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by Wacko Jacko » Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:49 pm
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wullvfr
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by wullvfr » Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:04 pm
are you sure there is thread on the inside of the caliper......i cant remember exactly but i m sure the threaded part is only on the caliper mount it self so if you remove the top bolt it should slide outwards but you will have to remove the wheel first to do this.
if it is threaded then you could remove the wheel,remove the brake hose and top bolt and turn the whole caliper itself.
william
please,god,....give me the chance to prove that winning the lottery won't spoil me!!!
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pugparcels
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by pugparcels » Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:16 pm
pretty sure william is right, there is no thread in the caliper itself as far as i have seen so undo the top slide the caliper off then wd-40 etc something along those lines to soak the thread. if its not to tight maybe a pair of mole grips around what is left or possible weld another nut/bolt onto what is left and remove via that. all depends how tight it is in there, just take your time more than anthing else!
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Spike16
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by Spike16 » Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:23 pm
+1, if you can getthe caliper off then you should be able to get some mole grips on the bolt end, try filing flats on the stud remaining to get a better grip
if that dosnt work try an easy out or drill a hole in the stud that is slightly smaller than the width of a flat head screw driver, hammer the flat head in and turn (try pulling another screw driver through the hole in the grip to get more torque on it)
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hunter
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by hunter » Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:44 pm
You will have to remove the wheel,then remove the top bolt grab what's left of the boltwith
a mole grips.if it is to tight to remove, get yourself a nut that will slip over the stud then weld on let it cool, you should be able to turn it out
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Cammo
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by Cammo » Thu Apr 16, 2009 10:34 pm
I've done exactly this myself and I was tearing my hair out also. Take the wheel off and try and unscrew it from behind the fork. IIRC the bolt end protrudes from behind the fork, use some good pliers on this and unscrew.
Use some wd40 or similar and leave it to soak for a couple of hours, every bit will help.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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Wacko Jacko
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by Wacko Jacko » Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:29 am
Thanks for all your replys and good ideas thankfully the sheared bolt came out easily i removed the wheel and caliper and i was able to unsrew with my fingers which was very bizzare. :D
Happy now just need to get a disc sorted now!
Thanks again
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GF Racing
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by GF Racing » Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:18 pm
This is why we fit new genuine calliper bolts twice a season on our race 400s ....
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jo
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Post
by jo » Sat Apr 18, 2009 9:14 pm
Wacko Jacko wrote:
Happy now just need to get a disc sorted now!
Thanks again
I got a pair of discs off ebay and they were both under the wear limit! I sent them back and got a refund and ended up buying some NC35 discs instead which were much better as they were newer and less used. They were half the price of NC30 discs too! Bonus!