NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe

[RVFmal]

So, had to replace the HT lead on cylinder 2 due to the original being cracked causing the engine to miss and run badly. Rick Oliver sent me a great how to on repairing these leads. Bought a new length of 7mm, soldered the little washer, reassembled with the suppressor, tested it and it was within the 4500 to 5000 ohm range. Reinstalled.

I simultaneously changed the fuel hose from tap to carbs with a new 8mm section as the old one was a botch job using the orange pipe from a gas line. There was an inline 6mm fuel filter with rubber pipe sections to fit into the 8mm pipe. I left this off as according to the manual there is no inline filter.

Tried to start bike. Nada. wants to fire but sounds and smells like it is flooding. Drained the carb bowls (the ones I could reach anyway) did the same thing.

Is it possible that removing the fuel filer could be causing the flooding due to the increase in pipe size over the in-line filters 6mm size?

[Swingarm]

Did it start and run before you did any of the work described?

Does it have the vacuum pipe in place?

If its been standing a while I'd take off the carbs and check the float bowls.

Not for the faint hearted but not incredibly tricky. Check the Haynes manual or do a search on here

[mechannibalism]

You may have inadvertently induced some debris inside the fuel line and it is now stuck in the needle valve......you know what to do....

[RVFmal]

Did it start and run before you did any of the work described?

Does it have the vacuum pipe in place?

If its been standing a while I'd take off the carbs and check the float bowls.

Not for the faint hearted but not incredibly tricky. Check the Haynes manual or do a search on here

It did. It ran badly ( subsequently found the damagae to the HT lead and repaired and tested to Rick Olivers methodology).

No vacuum pipe. Previous owner obviously did that as part of the mod to the bike as the pipe is faced toward the rear with a small section of rubber pipe blocked with a screw (it ran in this config)

It only stood for a few days whilst I did the HT lead repair.

Was hoping to avoid removing the carbs (as these were apparently done by the previous owner before I bought it (have receipt thereof).

[RVFmal]

You may have inadvertently induced some debris inside the fuel line and it is now stuck in the needle valve......you know what to do....

Yeah, havea feeling removing that inline filter when installing the new 8mm pipe was a mistake. Bike shop I get parts from did not have an 8mm filter unfortunately and did not want to use the old 6mm one.

School fees I guess.

[RVFmal]

So went through the process of testing all components in ignition system.

HT coil resistance (primary winding) 3.5 to 3.8 ohms on each of the coils
HT coil resistance (secondary winding, w/plug cap) 26.0-28.0 ohms respectively on each of the coils

Removed and tested spark plugs each tested as per below

3.8 ohms
3.0 ohms
4.0 ohms
4.8 ohms

Drained the carb float bowls (except carb 4 as could not get to drain screw.

Inserted fuel filter.

A bit of coaxing, but bike started.

Should I be replacing the coils and the spark plugs as resistance seems on the high side on each component.

[MadMotoUK]

Coil pack resistance values look okay to me.

[magg]

An inline fuel filter services no purpose as there is a filter included in the fuel tap, unless, in your case perhaps it provides a reservoir of fuel to fill the carbies. Is the vacuum hose to the fuel tap in good condition, is the vacuum fuel tap functioning correctly. I have converted the vacuum tap on my NC30 to fully manual as, depending on how long between rides, I found that cranking the engine until the float bowls filled could result in a flat battery,

[RVFmal]

An inline fuel filter services no purpose as there is a filter included in the fuel tap, unless, in your case perhaps it provides a reservoir of fuel to fill the carbies. Is the vacuum hose to the fuel tap in good condition, is the vacuum fuel tap functioning correctly. I have converted the vacuum tap on my NC30 to fully manual as, depending on how long between rides, I found that cranking the engine until the float bowls filled could result in a flat battery,

Have always erred to the side of caution in regards installing an inline fuel filter as one can never tell with quality of fuel in the good ol SA (especially when riding out to more remote areas).

Previous owner modified the vacuum system to manual as well. Toying withthe idea of bringing it back to stock, but like you, the concern would be the extra cranking required to get the bowls filled as it won't be ridden with regularity.