Engine & swingarm locknuts

[SmallFrowne]

Any idea what the torque figure should be when doing these up with the non honda tool (as found on ebay and the like). The book says 55Nm for engine locknut and 80Nm for the swingarm, sorry, the pivot lock nut. Thing is the Honda tool has an arm sticking off the castellated bit with which you plug your torque wrench into - increasing the leverage.

So, any idea on what level to increase the torque setting to when cheaping out and using the incorrect tool? (or a way I can calculate it). Or... tighten it, nip it, nip it again for luck?

Has anyone had any issues caused by not doing it by the book? The whole idea seems to be so that you can stop the funny adjustment bolt from turning any further, which is only done up to about 15Nm - any problems with it becoming too tight?

[Neosophist]

pardon the beer but the proper honda tool is just dual sided castellated 1/2 drive socket, I have one not 3 feet from me.

no matter what socket you use the book torque figures should be used.

not really sure what you're on about with the rest of the stuff... special levers and stuff?

leverage will change depending on the length of your torque wrench anyway, all that will do is chance the amoung of effort you have to exert to get the correct torque. which will always be the same. 50nm or whatever the book says.

its the bolt / nut itself that matters so the book torque figure wont change...

[SmallFrowne]

Ah, it is a dual castellated 1/2 socket I see now, there must be more than one tool, but it has a lever welded on by the looks of it (red). The torque wrench attaches to the lever/handle, does this change the effective force at the pivot point, as opposed to connecting the wrench to the centre of the tool? ie directly at the pivot point.

I'm just being anal about it really, and I can't fully recall the maths that would come in handy for this.

[Neosophist]

I was right when I said pardon the beer. I was thinking of the clutch socket...

Your on about this right

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/07908-4690003 ... 3cff375ff6

how to use it is detailed quite throgly in the haynes manual and probably the service manual too, the haynes book usually gives alternate ways of doing it but i dont have one at hand

I've never actually used one of them myself and always done them by feel without any noticable issue but the genuine service book says to use 95nm wiht the special tool so i guess thats the figure you'd set the wrench too with using that tool...

[vfrman]

Luckily I work with all sorts of Engineers...I asked a mechanical engineer and he said as long as the torque wrench is inline with the arm (like it shows in the picture), the torque value shouldn't change.

[hunter]

Luckily I work with all sorts of Engineers...I asked a mechanical engineer and he said as long as the torque wrench is inline with the arm (like it shows in the picture), the torque value shouldn't change.

Spot on.

[lukemillar]

Hmm, maybe I am reading that image incorrectly, but I thought that if it was inline then a correction is needed whereas if the torque wrench is perpendicular to the arm then no correction is required. I have a little Motion Pro tool that is great for using torque wrenches on spanners and allen keys and this is what they say:

[hunter]

Hmm, maybe I am reading that image incorrectly, but I thought that if it was inline then a correction is needed whereas if the torque wrench is perpendicular to the arm then no correction is required. I have a little Motion Pro tool that is great for using torque wrenches on spanners and allen keys and this is what they say:

You are reading your illustration correctly,
vfrman and myself are talking about attatching the talk wrench directly to the end of the socket
As in SmallFrowns illustration.

[SmallFrowne]

That ebay link didn't seem to work for me, but this is what I have:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-NC30-cl ... 19f416639e

I think the motion pro thing is right. Since the proper tool should be like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VFR-400 ... 1a0378f5e0

If the torque value in the book is for use with the second tool then I've seen a way to calculate the required torque at the pivot by working out the force required at the handle of the wrench. But this requires you know the length of the torque wrench - and the extra 50mm of the tool being an extension of the wrench, reduces the force required at the handle (or any point you grab it). < this might not make a lot of sense but this is what I was looking at https://www.engineersedge.com/manufactu ... ench_1.htm

At this point i'm not really worrying about it (I've already done up the engine mount locknuts to what feels tight and marked them, swingarm to do when I get my wheels back..) but it is kind of interesting, like why is it necessary to ensure the inner adjuster bolt doesn't move any further when doing up the locknut? I suppose that is the normal use of a locknut, like on tappets... hmmm