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dunkenb
- Regular Member
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:39 pm
- Bike owned: Cbr400rr nc29 type8 NSR250
- Location: West Midlands
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by dunkenb » Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:42 pm
Does anybody know how the brass rebound screws in honda fork tops come out?
I've seen on jamies nsr page how mc28 forks are dismantled and theres a picture of all the parts laid out
Including the rebound adjusting screws but how the hell do you remove them?
Is it HAMMER time ??

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DOA
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by DOA » Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:00 pm
Assuming these are the same as on the F3 CBR600...
If I remember correctly you need to remove the preload adjuster from the fork cap and damper rod (mark the exact position of the nut which retains the damper rod and put it back to this exact position upon re-assembly as this sets the range of the adjuster screws!!!) and then screw the rebound adjuster screw in until it comes out. You will probably notice an o-ring half way up the preload adjuster and this holds the detent ball on place (the thing that makes it click when you turn the screw). You may need to remove the o-ring and the detent ball making sure you dont drop the ball. You may also need to file the top of the screw if it is deformed to prevent damage to the bore it runs in. If they are seized you just have to keep working away screwing it in a wee bit and back out again along with application of copious amounts of WD40/Plusgas having removed the detent ball which lets you get lube into the heart of the sticking section. Just in case you are not aware, to seperate the preload adjuster from the fork cap you need to undo the fork cap from the fork stantion and then keep winding the adjuster through the fork cap. For best results, replace any o-rings but personally I just dont bother.
For reference, you can do all of this on the bike as long as you support it properly and it means you dont have to fully remove the damper rod. you do however have to make sure that the damper rod doesnt fully retract once you detatch it or else it will dissapear down the fork and you wont be able to get it back up without a lot of faffing around/a magnet on a stick.
Last edited by
DOA on Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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dunkenb
- Regular Member
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:39 pm
- Bike owned: Cbr400rr nc29 type8 NSR250
- Location: West Midlands
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by dunkenb » Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:14 pm
Cheers, that helps .
Is there any thing actually holding the brass screws in the preload adjuster bit ?
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DOA
- Settled in member
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- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 3:17 pm
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by DOA » Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:32 pm
Once the preload adjuster is removed from the damper rod I think the only thing holding them in is the detent ball and the sealing o-ring and realistically neither of those should hold them in.
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dunkenb
- Regular Member
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:39 pm
- Bike owned: Cbr400rr nc29 type8 NSR250
- Location: West Midlands
Post
by dunkenb » Thu Jan 09, 2014 7:51 pm
From Matt Patterson at tyga performance.
How to; in order
Remove the top cap complete from the damper rod.
wind the preload adjuster c/w as if you're increasing preload. Keep winding and eventually the adjuster will come out the bottom of the cap.
On this adjuster you'll see an o-ring and a radial spring.
Remove the radial spring, but be careful as there's a little ball in there in a hole. this is what give you the 'click click' as you adjust the rebound.
Now just wind the rebound adjuster c/w as if increasing rebound damping and it will eventually come out the bottom.
Job done.
Refitting is just a reversal of the above.