Hi guys,

My RVF seems to be having fuelling issues. Sometime into a ride, the rvf will sputter and die. I'll wait a bit and then start her right back up, but after wards, it will struggle to hold idle as fuel isn't flowing. I've replaced the vacuum hose and rebuilt the fuel tap.

Now it was doing this very frequently before but thats cause a workshop fitted a long fuel hose that was kinked, removed that and i thought it was fine but it still occurs infrequently.

There is an inline fuel filter between the tank and the "T". Should i just remove it and put a straight hose? Any other places to look?

Yes remove that inline filter, you don't need it.

Okay, I changed it out and i realised something really stupid....I had practically no fuel left in the tank . I've had so many issues with this bike I automatically assumed something was wrong with the fuel system. I'll fill it up and see how it goes.

Btw, I noticed the guys at the workshop just did away with the breather hoses, got rid of the breather from the tank and disconnected the two hoses that connect to the sub-filter element from the air box. These guys are RB so I trust them but why would they do that and what are the consequences?

Id say they forgot to connect them back up, theres no benefit to removing the breather or the sub filter hoses, they wont do much harm either. Wasnt there a thread not so long ago where RB's had done some rather questionable things to someones bike/carbs in an attempt to get it running right????

Drunkn Munky wrote:Id say they forgot to connect them back up, theres no benefit to removing the breather or the sub filter hoses, they wont do much harm either. Wasnt there a thread not so long ago where RB's had done some rather questionable things to someones bike/carbs in an attempt to get it running right????

Is it worth me taking it back to them to get them to reconnect the breather hose? Or should i just connect it (I have the breather hose from rick O), but I don't know where the breather hose routes to from the tank because I didn't get a chance to look at where it went or does it not matter? If I know the correct routing I could do it 5 minutes.

I also need new carb needles, they showed me the needles and they were worn but their rate is 75 bucks per needle and i just couldnt pay that! May order from cmnsl next year. Apparently that's what's causing my flat spot at around 4-6k rpm, it's alot better now after they tuned it (only 58hp)though/

58bhp is fine and im sure they would say you need new needles at 75 bucks a throw Try removing the needle washer before buying new needles and see what happens to the flat spot then, if it gets worse then try a 1mm washer instead of the stock 0.5mm washer but my money would be on it being too rich and would therefore be better without the washer. It may make it worse and they are right in you needing new needles but worth trying the free stuff first. Im sure rick oliver would send you some new needles cheaper than that.

The breather just runs to the underside of the bike, i put mine into the cut out in the lower left frame spar by the sprocket cover.

Drunkn Munky wrote:58bhp is fine and im sure they would say you need new needles at 75 bucks a throw Try removing the needle washer before buying new needles and see what happens to the flat spot then, if it gets worse then try a 1mm washer instead of the stock 0.5mm washer but my money would be on it being too rich and would therefore be better without the washer. It may make it worse and they are right in you needing new needles but worth trying the free stuff first. Im sure rick oliver would send you some new needles cheaper than that.

The breather just runs to the underside of the bike, i put mine into the cut out in the lower left frame spar by the sprocket cover.

Yup it is running rich, Cam's sending me 3 used needles so I'll see how it goes. I've never touched the carbs myself so this is a good place to start, read the haynes manual and should be straightforward :)