Stem bearing new type. Roller not ball bearings

[bodge]

I was just setting this buy buy the manual. The adjustment on the steering stem bearings.

The manual says tighten it down to 50 N/M I couldn't beleave it but ended up thinking well the manual has got to be right.


After id done it all I looked across at the old ones I swapped out a month earlyer. The O/E ones are ball bearings. Which would make sence to tighten them to 50 n/m

But the new ones are roller type bearing.


Am I correct in thinking that i should just nip the new type up to remove the play? I think i might have over done them but it still feels smooth

[bodge]

No worries. Ive blatantly over done them. Im going to order some standard ones

[Morespeedvicar]

Hi, I've always fitted tapper rolller bearings, they supposed to be better so i wouldnt worry about swapping them again. Tightening them to 50n/m is prob just to seat the bearings properley then undo and tension properley.
Cheers
Ian

[Neosophist]

don't overtighten taper bearings, only stock ball races. your thinking is right. Taper bearings have some advantages but many including myself use stock ballraces, good for 20 years from new right. tapers can be difficult to get adjusted properly and wear quicker as a result of bad installation

[Drunkn Munky]

OEM bearings everytime, unless you have a press tapers can be tricky to be install without wrecking them.

[bodge]

Yep the bottom one was a little tricky.

Everything in my mind was saying this isn't right. 50 n/m But I thought I would trust the manual. It was only when I looked over to the old ones i clocked on.

Ive slacked them off now and tbf they seem alright so ill just keep and eye on them.


2 things though is there anywhere to buy new locking washer's and also some correct size C spanners would be ideal to lock the both together.

Considering with tapper its only nipped down im not sure how the locking washer / 2nd nut will really stop them coming loose again

[tigerclaw]

I think some Loctite is required. Re the spanners I had a large socket (just bigger than the castle nut type things) and put a small bolt into one of the castle thingies (technical term) which then worked as a key on the inside of the socket so that the socket would grip

[arsey30]

Standard torque for caged head race cup and cone bearings is 50n/m, [it gives some degree of steering damping] taper rollers more like 1.8n/m.
There is a Honda peg spanner tool to apply the correct torque.
The 4 locking tab tabs can be bent back, [a standard Honda item] so that lock nut binds around a quarter of a turn from fully wound down with hand pressure, and this is the correct position.
The top yoke when torqued down will clamp the lock nut into position so that it cannot turn.

Done that way, the lock nut will not load up the adjuster nut, so the adjustment will remain correct.

The forks must turn lock to lock with a pull of 1 to 1.5 kilo with standard bearings.

It is all detailed in the manual.