clutch questions

[krisztian_andre]

A few questions regarding a clutch rebuild:

1. how do I know when to rebuild the clutch
2. when to change the steel plates, diaphragm springs or the 4 helical springs
3. where do the 4 helical springs go, I can't find them in the manual
4. is this a good kit http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/search/d ... art=SRK063 at 120 GBP
5. do I need to replace the gasket?

I'm suspecting a clutch problem because it vibrates sometimes after engaging especially with 2 people on the bike and my dyno plot is all over the place:

http://i.cubeupload.com/5db953.jpeg

[lutorm]

Well, I do know about 2 and 3: there are no helical springs, only the 3 diaphragm springs. And I have a new gasket, but so far the old one is holding up (after being opened up 3 times).

There are pretty much only 2 kinds of clutch problems: 1. It slips (should be obvious), or 2. It drags/doesn't disengage (should also be obvious). If none of those apply, I doubt there's a need to pull it apart.

[Cammo]

Did you ever get around to testing the compression in the engine?

[Ben_OB1]

Running very rich too, < 13:1 Air:Fuel throughout the rev range!

[krisztian_andre]

Did you ever get around to testing the compression in the engine?

I just got my adapter made, I'll do the compression and leakdown tests soon.

[krisztian_andre]

Well, I do know about 2 and 3: there are no helical springs, only the 3 diaphragm springs. And I have a new gasket, but so far the old one is holding up (after being opened up 3 times).

There are pretty much only 2 kinds of clutch problems: 1. It slips (should be obvious), or 2. It drags/doesn't disengage (should also be obvious). If none of those apply, I doubt there's a need to pull it apart.

That vibration/shudder is clutch slip when I have my fat friend on the back seat so I'm inferring from that that at 10500rpm looking at the dyno plot the chart becomes jittery and the power increase stops due to the same effect(clutch grips and slips with a high frequency when a certain torque is reached). Normally these engines top out at around 12500rpm.

I thought there are helical clutch springs because the kits seem to include these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-CSK-Clutch- ... 87&vxp=mtr

I'm suspecting that the dyno's lambda sensor is off or the engine oil burning causes inaccurate reading because the plugs look the correct color.

[CMSMJ1]

It cannot handle your fat friend as it has bugger all power - 44bhp!

It should rev to 14000 revs and make 55+

So, your bike is just weak from low compression and a poor air/fuel mix. The clutch slip is an easy test but I almost reckon you don't have the power to be able to cause it!

[krisztian_andre]

I fitted 112/115 jets, going on the dyno tomorrow but from the way it feels it won't be much better.

[Neosophist]

dont you have any decent mechanics anywhere you can find? If you have to ask these sort of questions then perhaps you dont have the skills yet to do the work yourself, if you can get somebody good to help and acutally be there you will learn an awful lot.

trying to fix your bike from a desription and peoples advice on the internet might be ok for small thing but your issues can be caused by a lot of stuff so you are grabbing at staws and waste time and money to do this way.

your bikes done 70k km and is making weak power, you need somebody to have a good look at it, its either worn out prematurley from abuse or somethings really not right.

the fuel air mix doesnt seem too rich to me, how do your plugs looks?

[krisztian_andre]

Strange as it may be there aren't any decent mechanics here. I didn't believe it either when Paul from Tyga told me years ago but it's true.

Plugs are oily wet, the top electrode is brown and dry as I said it looks like the correct remperature on the electrodes. The rest of the plug I can't read because the oil covers up the combustion color.

The electric system is fine and tested, carb's are in good shape clean and set up well. I will get the dyno results tomorrow with the new tyga exhaust and leaner jets. The oil consumption is 1 ml/km at highway speeds and there is a lot of carbon fouling on the top of the pistons. I'll know more this week after the compression and leakdown tests. Should I do them on a hot or cold a engine?

dont you have any decent mechanics anywhere you can find? If you have to ask these sort of questions then perhaps you dont have the skills yet to do the work yourself, if you can get somebody good to help and acutally be there you will learn an awful lot.

trying to fix your bike from a desription and peoples advice on the internet might be ok for small thing but your issues can be caused by a lot of stuff so you are grabbing at staws and waste time and money to do this way.

your bikes done 70k km and is making weak power, you need somebody to have a good look at it, its either worn out prematurley from abuse or somethings really not right.

the fuel air mix doesnt seem too rich to me, how do your plugs looks?