Hi guys, I have just put a new starter solenoid on the nc30 and my loom burnt out from the clutch diode to the plugs for stator.I put on a complete new loom with another diode and as soon as I connected the battery it started to do the same thing from the diode forward.any ideas what would cause this? As its got me stumped now please.

The first loom buring started when, immediately after you connected the new solenoid or after you turned the ignition switch to ON? Which stator connector is burnt, are you refering to the rect/reg connector.

With the second loom, do you mean all the wires in the loom near the diode have burnt or only some wires. If only some wires, which ones?

As a starting point you could try disconnecting the rect/reg. This is the only electrical unit that is connected directly to the battery, all other electrical units are switched through the ignition switch.

Hi it's the wires from the diode down to the plugs from the motor the diode itself completely melted on 1st loom and it was about 10 min after connecting the solenoid and battery but straight away on the new loom

All your problems started with the new solenoid, perhaps your new solenoid is not compatible with the NC30 wiring.

On the solenoid, measure the resistance between the terminal connected to the large cable that runs to the starter motor, and the terminal that connects to the green/red wire. Should measure infinite resistance.

This might sound bizarre but the solenoid only works with the cable from the starter motor connected to the left terminal and the battery live to the right, the opposite way to the old solenoid. Otherwise you get no power to the ignition never mind power to the starter. Thanks for the reply magg will try and dig the multi meter out from the garage.

From your last comment, I suspect the connection arrangement of your new solenoid is not an exact match to the OEM one and when you connect the battery you are creating a direct path from the battery through the clutch diode to the chassis. This would explain why the clutch diode and associated wiring is being overloaded.

Once you have located your mulytimeter I can suggest further ohm meter tests to investigate configuration of the new solenoid and how it might best be connected.

Right,finally got round to having a look at the 400 and I've found that putting the starter solenoid terminals on the correct way I get no power to the ignition or starter.But when I disconnect the starter terminal from the relay I have ignition and the relay clicks as it should when pressing the button.Reconnect the starter terminal an all power is once again gone.

I have found two starter relays on ebay that are claimed to be NC30/VFR yet the connection configurations are different.

Does your new relay have B and M marks to identify the terminals for the Battery and Motor. Swaping the battery and motor terminals will result in no battery power to the bike.

Hi magg yeah that's the ones m and b on the cover I rooted around and found that in the end it was a dodgy terminal on the wiring plug causing the problems.We now have power and she fired into life at last.Many thanks for the advice given mate.

Good to hear you have had success.