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mollers
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- Bike owned: 1990 NC30 uk, 2002 Blade 954
- Location: Bedford
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by mollers » Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:53 pm
Hi boys
Your knowledge is required !!!!
Got to remove the rear part of the exhaust system (standard) on my NC30. First time ive attempted
this so all advice and cheeky tips warmly welcome

. I have a Haynes manual but iam sure their are some prized tips from you lot that would help me a lot more !!!!!!
Cheers in advance

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CMSMJ1
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Post
by CMSMJ1 » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:17 pm
Soak the nuts
use 6 point sockets
soak the nuts
use 6 point sockets
take the rearsets off
take the rear wheel off
take your time..
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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speedy231278
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by speedy231278 » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:23 pm
Also, you might want to get some new studs. If you don't some are bound to break, if you do, they'll all be fine. 92900-060-200E, about a quid plus VAT from Honda. DSS are currently out of them, Lings don't specify stock levels...
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mollers
- Settled in member
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:32 pm
- Bike owned: 1990 NC30 uk, 2002 Blade 954
- Location: Bedford
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by mollers » Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:32 pm
Thanks gents. As per above, not going to hurry it now. Gonna take my time and soak my nuts

and order some new studs and try tomorrow after another soak
Thanks for your help.

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mollers
- Settled in member
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- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:32 pm
- Bike owned: 1990 NC30 uk, 2002 Blade 954
- Location: Bedford
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by mollers » Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:36 pm
Got any advice on gaskets as will need a full set ?

Are the ones on flebay ok or should i get Honda stuff ?
Have read about people not using the clamps when refitting as not really required ?

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jetblack
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by jetblack » Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:09 pm
Is it worth wire brushing them first and using. Some heat too?
It don't matter if i'm fixin' it or ridin' it.
xivlia wrote:sorry about that whole thing jetblack, i just got confused about the whole thing, and i didnt mean any disrespect to you.
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NGneer
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by NGneer » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:01 pm
CMSMJ1 wrote:Soak the nuts
use 6 point sockets
soak the nuts
use 6 point sockets
take the rearsets off
take the rear wheel off
take your time..
Did Mark mention the use of some penetrating oil....oh yes, it was in there somewhere
Sage advice, as it removing as much stuff as you can/want to to give easier access to the nuts on the rear header. Universal and / or flexi drives will help a lot on the rears to get a good clean contact and (hopefully) reduce the risk of shearing a stud. new studs for what they cost are a no brainer and each to their own but I have always used the copper ring 'crush' typr of gaskets and never had any issues with them.
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mollers
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- Bike owned: 1990 NC30 uk, 2002 Blade 954
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by mollers » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:23 pm
Thanks NGneer, will post the outcome tomorrow !!!!!! fingers crossed

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BB_158
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by BB_158 » Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:35 pm
Also tackling for first time, this thread most helpful. Any tips on which particular order to undo/remove or doesn't it really matter just undo everthing?
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Neosophist
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by Neosophist » Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:02 am
Depends on how much time / how easy you want to make the job.
Quicker way.
1. Remove the lower cowlels
2. Remove the right side footpeg (two big hex bolts and 1 x 10mm heatshield bolt hold it on, leave the heatshield and brake etc attatched, just unbolt it so you can swing it out the way)
3. Undo the two clamps at the bottom and the 3 bolts from your stubby maifold (using the gap created by the footpeg)
4. Unbolt the can and remove the rear footpeg as it holds the can.
5. Wiggle the exhaust loose and then remove it around the rear rear wheel (the can goes under the bike and coemes out the non-can side, be careful not to scratch it)
Removing the rear wheel and jacking it up with a paddock stand does make the job less fidlly, especially if its your first time.
As a few people have said, soak the nuts the night before in some plus gas etc.
i use freeze and release spray too (no need to wait, just spray it and undo like 10 seconds later) but take your time with odl unknown nuts.. tehy get really rusty and if you force them they will snap, if you use the right tools (freeze spray and plus gas) you can remove them without breaking anything.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...