Hey all,

Been on a bit of a wheel painting mission recently and the abridged story goes something like this:

Had 4 wheels stripped and powdercoated. Colour swatch "looked" like gold, but ended up more like milky shit (no exaggeration). Took them to a trusted painter who did a fantastic job over the top of the powdercoat and now looks pretty bang on the HRC gold.

but...

Neither the powdercoater, nor the painter masked the disc mounting surfaces(the painter just followed where the powder coater had coated). They did protect the threads and the bearing centres, but the actual mating surface is covered in paint and powdercoat.

Question1: Is this a problem?... The disc still mounts, it's just the paint will offset it by a few tenths of a mm, which the caliper can absorb. I have been scouring the internet for advice, but have been coming up blank. Ideally the surfaces SHOULD be clean, but there isn't much info if they aren't.

Question2: If it is a problem, what is best way to get this stuff off!? I'm thinking something mechanical; rather the chemical, but am wondering if anyone has had similar issues.

Lastly, please don't turn this thread into a bitching session about painters and powdercoaters. What is done is done.

Cheers
Luke

I doubt the disc will sit dead level unless you remove it. Id try scraping it off and maybe a detail sander with a coarse pad but try not to attack the alloy.

Dremel, needle file, sandpaper.

allthough i and my powder coater made efforts to cover and protect stuff, a few bits got coated, which i cleaned off ill dig some pics out for you, there was some buts i cleaned off back to alloy then realised it didnt need removing.

Rick

Cheers for the replies

Yep, some pics would be awesome Rick - Thanks

I used a new stanley blade to scrape the surface clean then a bit of scotch bright to buff it back up, light smear of grease to stop the corrosion and it should fit level.

Stanley blade sounds good - thanks for the tips!

Paint needs removing as it will compress over a period so that clamping torque is reduced.
Wheel surface needs to be level to prevent disc run out, but can be lapped in with fine grinding paste/metal polish.

Check with a dial gauge, if out then pulsing at the brake level may show it up.

Neosophist wrote:I used a new stanley blade to scrape the surface clean then a bit of scotch bright to buff it back up, light smear of grease to stop the corrosion and it should fit level.

One more for the stanley/Razor blade. Get some of the ones with a safe edge to get rid of the bulk of the material and then polish up with scotch brite or a bit of wet and dry.

I just had this exact problem.

Powder coater coated all inner surfaces, all threads and all mating surfaces. You need to use a stanley knife and sand paper to get a flat disc mating surface, you need bare metal.

Absolute fucking nightmare. My back wheel, when hammered on, wouldn't hammer off, had to take the hub off and have it pressed off.

For whats its worth carb cleaner melts the stuff right off so spray some in a small bowl and use an ear bud to remove what you need will sort those pics later this evening just come in from the workshop