Wheel painting questions
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- lukemillar
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Wheel painting questions
Hey all,
Been on a bit of a wheel painting mission recently and the abridged story goes something like this:
Had 4 wheels stripped and powdercoated. Colour swatch "looked" like gold, but ended up more like milky shit (no exaggeration). Took them to a trusted painter who did a fantastic job over the top of the powdercoat and now looks pretty bang on the HRC gold.
but...
Neither the powdercoater, nor the painter masked the disc mounting surfaces(the painter just followed where the powder coater had coated). They did protect the threads and the bearing centres, but the actual mating surface is covered in paint and powdercoat.
Question1: Is this a problem?... The disc still mounts, it's just the paint will offset it by a few tenths of a mm, which the caliper can absorb. I have been scouring the internet for advice, but have been coming up blank. Ideally the surfaces SHOULD be clean, but there isn't much info if they aren't.
Question2: If it is a problem, what is best way to get this stuff off!? I'm thinking something mechanical; rather the chemical, but am wondering if anyone has had similar issues.
Lastly, please don't turn this thread into a bitching session about painters and powdercoaters. What is done is done.
Cheers
Luke
Been on a bit of a wheel painting mission recently and the abridged story goes something like this:
Had 4 wheels stripped and powdercoated. Colour swatch "looked" like gold, but ended up more like milky shit (no exaggeration). Took them to a trusted painter who did a fantastic job over the top of the powdercoat and now looks pretty bang on the HRC gold.
but...
Neither the powdercoater, nor the painter masked the disc mounting surfaces(the painter just followed where the powder coater had coated). They did protect the threads and the bearing centres, but the actual mating surface is covered in paint and powdercoat.
Question1: Is this a problem?... The disc still mounts, it's just the paint will offset it by a few tenths of a mm, which the caliper can absorb. I have been scouring the internet for advice, but have been coming up blank. Ideally the surfaces SHOULD be clean, but there isn't much info if they aren't.
Question2: If it is a problem, what is best way to get this stuff off!? I'm thinking something mechanical; rather the chemical, but am wondering if anyone has had similar issues.
Lastly, please don't turn this thread into a bitching session about painters and powdercoaters. What is done is done.
Cheers
Luke
- Drunkn Munky
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Re: Wheel painting questions
I doubt the disc will sit dead level unless you remove it. Id try scraping it off and maybe a detail sander with a coarse pad but try not to attack the alloy.
- porndoguk
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Re: Wheel painting questions
Dremel, needle file, sandpaper.
allthough i and my powder coater made efforts to cover and protect stuff, a few bits got coated, which i cleaned off ill dig some pics out for you, there was some buts i cleaned off back to alloy then realised it didnt need removing.
Rick
allthough i and my powder coater made efforts to cover and protect stuff, a few bits got coated, which i cleaned off ill dig some pics out for you, there was some buts i cleaned off back to alloy then realised it didnt need removing.
Rick
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- lukemillar
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Re: Wheel painting questions
Cheers for the replies
Yep, some pics would be awesome Rick - Thanks
Yep, some pics would be awesome Rick - Thanks
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Re: Wheel painting questions
I used a new stanley blade to scrape the surface clean then a bit of scotch bright to buff it back up, light smear of grease to stop the corrosion and it should fit level.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- lukemillar
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Re: Wheel painting questions
Stanley blade sounds good - thanks for the tips!
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Re: Wheel painting questions
Paint needs removing as it will compress over a period so that clamping torque is reduced.
Wheel surface needs to be level to prevent disc run out, but can be lapped in with fine grinding paste/metal polish.
Check with a dial gauge, if out then pulsing at the brake level may show it up.
Wheel surface needs to be level to prevent disc run out, but can be lapped in with fine grinding paste/metal polish.
Check with a dial gauge, if out then pulsing at the brake level may show it up.
- NGneer
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Re: Wheel painting questions
Neosophist wrote:I used a new stanley blade to scrape the surface clean then a bit of scotch bright to buff it back up, light smear of grease to stop the corrosion and it should fit level.


- iDemonix
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Re: Wheel painting questions
I just had this exact problem.
Powder coater coated all inner surfaces, all threads and all mating surfaces. You need to use a stanley knife and sand paper to get a flat disc mating surface, you need bare metal.
Absolute fucking nightmare. My back wheel, when hammered on, wouldn't hammer off, had to take the hub off and have it pressed off.
Powder coater coated all inner surfaces, all threads and all mating surfaces. You need to use a stanley knife and sand paper to get a flat disc mating surface, you need bare metal.
Absolute fucking nightmare. My back wheel, when hammered on, wouldn't hammer off, had to take the hub off and have it pressed off.
A roaring V4 is the summer soundtrack.
- porndoguk
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Re: Wheel painting questions
For whats its worth carb cleaner melts the stuff right off so spray some in a small bowl and use an ear bud to remove what you need
will sort those pics later this evening just come in from the workshop

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