cbr400rr nc29 need urgent help

[Riccodan]

hi i currently have a cbr400rr nc29 gullarm and i have de restricted it by using resistors and disconnected the restrictor from the back of the clocks and have cleaned the carbs and balanced them changed the spark plugs etc check all electronics you know what im on about reason i did this was because the bike was dying on me before at random so i wanted to make sure everything was ok and that the 112mph restrictor was not just kicking in when ever it wanted to as the bike would run completely fine then just randomly die anyways after doing all this the bike now revs at 2000 rpm before doing all this it idled at 1400 so now because it is at 2000 rpm my bike now revs more for example before my bike doing 40mph would rev at 4000 rpm now at 40 it revs at 5000 also it is very hard to gear down or up does any one know what the problem could be i have done everything checked for air leaks in the carbs made sure spark plugs are sparking etc also when i turn the rpm down from 2000k by the idle adjustment it just dies i can get it say to around 1800 but no less just completely cuts out does any one have any ideas on what the problem could be thanks

[Evilchicken0]

Um .....

Just using the idle adjuster is fine as long as everything else in the carbs is ok .... it does sound like an airleak though and because you mention changing gear I'd assume it's something like the airbox rather than the carbs themselves. Take it off (check the intake trumpets) and then seat the airbox again. Lastly with the engine running spay some carb cleaner around the juctions, if the revs change then that's where the leak is.

If your carbs are clean and everything is as it should be then I'd say your carbs could firstly do with balancing and then setting up and usually in these cases I recomend taking the bike to a dyno to get it done

[dunkenb]

Are the fuel/air mixture screws set correctly? Check the small carb air inlets under the cover that holds the trumpets on, what colour are the spark plugs after its been run?

[rich2302]

Surely if the revs have increased for a given speed in a given gear, then the rev counter can't be reading correctly?? Because if you've not changed the gearing, then it can't be doing a different revs for the speed you're going?

Are you sure with the mods that you've done to the clocks that it's not picking up an incorrect feed? What size resistors(s) did you use?

[Cammo]

Surely if the revs have increased for a given speed in a given gear, then the rev counter can't be reading correctly?? Because if you've not changed the gearing, then it can't be doing a different revs for the speed you're going?

This, or your clutch is slipping.

[Riccodan]

Um .....

Just using the idle adjuster is fine as long as everything else in the carbs is ok .... it does sound like an airleak though and because you mention changing gear I'd assume it's something like the airbox rather than the carbs themselves. Take it off (check the intake trumpets) and then seat the airbox again. Lastly with the engine running spay some carb cleaner around the juctions, if the revs change then that's where the leak is.

If your carbs are clean and everything is as it should be then I'd say your carbs could firstly do with balancing and then setting up and usually in these cases I recomend taking the bike to a dyno to get it done

All has been done. even down the re-oiling the airfilter and cleaning separating each carb and changing the o rings carbs have been balanced.

i have found that all 4 sparks are extremely weak, pick ups have been tests reading at 402 resistance (cold engine) which haynes manual states has to be between 380 to 420 on a hot engine it when up to 480 is this ok ?

coil packs secondary and primary were in spec and great

spark plug gaps in spec and new (ngk iridium)

charging rate good and battery voltage good

throttle position sensor greens earth, yellow would sit at around 5.00 resistance, red wire would raise in resistance when throttle is opened is this ok ?

only thing i cannot and have not tested is the ecu, all ignition wires have been tested back to the ecu and are fine

[Riccodan]

Surely if the revs have increased for a given speed in a given gear, then the rev counter can't be reading correctly?? Because if you've not changed the gearing, then it can't be doing a different revs for the speed you're going?

Are you sure with the mods that you've done to the clocks that it's not picking up an incorrect feed? What size resistors(s) did you use?

resistors have now been removed, the bike is still doing the same thing , you could be right about the rpm reading wrong is there a method of find out?

no gearing has been changed all the same thank you for your reply

[Riccodan]

i would just like to say sorry for the very late reply guys, i never had this tread set to send the reply back to my email ,which i thought it was set at and never bothered checking this site because i never had any messaged via email thank you for your replied, i will reply from now on and check my emails as this treat is set to send via email now.

[Riccodan]

Surely if the revs have increased for a given speed in a given gear, then the rev counter can't be reading correctly?? Because if you've not changed the gearing, then it can't be doing a different revs for the speed you're going?

This, or your clutch is slipping.

i think the clutch maybe slipping a little, as when i did the valve clearances the oil did have the smell of burnt clutch, but still doesn't explain why the idle is so high.

But as i have just replied back to one of the members.

I have found that all 4 sparks are extremely weak, pick ups have been tests reading at 402 resistance (cold engine) which haynes manual states has to be between 380 to 420 on a hot engine it when up to 480 is this ok ?

coil packs secondary and primary were in spec and great

spark plug gaps in spec and new (ngk iridium)

charging rate good and battery voltage good

throttle position sensor greens earth, yellow would sit at around 5.00 resistance, red wire would raise in resistance when throttle is opened is this ok ?

only thing i cannot and have not tested is the ecu, all ignition wires have been tested back to the ecu and are fine