NC35 jetting questions

[v4hrc]

The NC35 I just picked up had dirty carbs, so that's the first job I've gone after. I've got them clean now (separated all and cleaned with an ultrasonic), but I'd like to know if my jetting seems right before I put the carbs on. I've read through several threads already, and luckily saw the bit about the different emulsion tubes so I've made sure those are in the right place. My carbs were set with the stock 108 mains, 35 pilots, looks like stock needles with an extra shim. The end can is a blue flame, so not OEM Honda, and someone has modded an OEM filter with a K&N panel. Mix screws were set at 2 turns out, I've read on here they should be 1 5/8? I have a Haynes manual on the way, but unfortunately it's not here yet. I haven't found a spec for float height yet, just references in threads to having them set a bit higher or lower. Does this seem right for what appears to be a stock bike with the exception of the can and filter mod? Pic of the modified filter below.

http://www.rc30.us/images/RVF/filter.jpg

[CRM]

how did it ride before ? if ok then its close.
not sure what you mean about emulsion tubes - i think you are getting confused with the NC30 which are very different.
with just a can and filter i would be looking at genuine keihin 110's and the RVF's have a washer as standard under the needles anyway.
float height for the RVF is 12.5mm a mm either way can help / make worsen any issues you have, if it ran fine then one size up using genuine jets should be plenty.

[v4hrc]

I couldn't tell you how it ran before, when I bought it the bike had been sitting for quite a while without being ridden, that's why I started with the carb removal and thorough cleaning. The emulsion tubes, the brass bits the main jets actually thread into - I found a post on here with a picture showing which ones go in the front carbs and which ones are in back. The OEM washer was in place under the needles, but there was also an extra washer with it (2 per needle).

Thanks for the info!

[CRM]

you were looking at the NC30 carb jetting guide - not applicable for the 35.
2 washers eh - interesting.
i would leave it as is, try it and if there is a problem then jet accordingly.

[speedy231278]

Both the 30 and 35 have different emulsion tubes front to back, but they are different in different ways. On an NC30, the number of holes is different. On an NC35, the position of the holes is different. The bottom hole is spaced further away from the middle hole on than the top hole is, but on the rears the gap is about double, on the fronts it is more like three or possibly four times as much.

Front: http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-rvf400rr-nc3 ... 165mr8900/

Rear http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-rvf400rr-nc3 ... 166mr8900/

For a stock system and air filter I was advised to run 112 mains. With a K+N as well you might possibly want slightly larger ones, but I'm not any sort of authority on jetting. Have a look at the NC30 carb thread that's a sticky on the list, as there is also NC35 stuff on it too. I'm hoping that 112 isn't too big for mine seeing as CRM suggests 110 for a can AND filter... :s

[CRM]

112 could well be fine.
honestly i have found other things have a marked effect on performance and jetting. valve clearances being one.

I cant tell you how many times i have stripped 30 and 35 carbs down in an effort to get it right.
various tried and tested methods, some work better on some engines, some dont. one valuable lesson i learned was to always use genuine keihin jets. just because a jet says 110 on top doesn't actually mean it will work with other 110's
i am (with ricks help) going to compile a jet identification / image / comparison post soon

But v good point on the 35 emulsion tubes, quite correct, i had assumed he was looking at the 30 post - however with no mention of slide drilling yet i don't know why i assumed that.

[racingt]

Paul, your comments worry me. My 35 runs perfectly, stock filter, tyga can , and I'm told 110s and shims ( don't know size)
My second, immaculate low mileage 35 has the midrange fuelling issue and I was going to copy first bikes settings onto it. Is this a viable strategy?
So far, nothing has been dismembered, just enjoyed the odd dry ride on sorted one. perhaps our summers are now best time for restoration?..

[CRM]

summer - what summer ? better and dryer in winter now.
i would copy the settings and see how it goes. why worry ? its good you have 2 bikes to work with. i have a few sets of carbs, and i jetted both the same, and tried each set of the same bike, once i knew they were the same i would swop / plug and play so to speak with different permutations.

like i say just make sure the jets are not a mixture of dynojet and keihin jets - or you may as well just have a stab in the dark and results will be random.

to expand on the valve clearance thing, my UK spec NC30 was never fast, ok on the dyno it was ok but i knew it never felt as it should compared to other sorted bikes i had owned.
I ended up with a 125 / 128 setup with original pipe and air filter to get it running anything like, and it still wasnt right regardless of what the dyno said.
once clearances were set (they were slightly tight) it was worse !!
turned out the cam timing was all wrong, it all lined up but the cam gears were pressed on in the wrong place and thats why it never really went well.
so a set of RVF cams fitted, timed correctly, it was way too rich, jetting back to OE UK spec and it pulls like a bloody train like it never pulled before.

[racingt]

My first rvf pulls cleanly from 2000, and doesn't stop, even at 14.5. Only returns 45mpg so perhaps its running rich, although I do need choke.
Second rvf very low miles, has glitch and runs out of steam at 110, so I think it is running way too lean. Engine is much quieter than original, only 12k miles. Beautiful bike but glitch and unsorted suspension mean original is my gave despite looking a lot rougher!

[speedy231278]

Only 45mpg.... lol I'd love to get that many, I reckon 40 at best for mine. When I first got the bike it would run on to reserve at about 190kms which equates to about 41. After adding 70000kms to it, I now get more like 175 to 180. It all depends on how long you sit at the pump topping it up for as the air comes out the tank. Also of course depends on riding style, the type and distance of journey etc. On one occasion I did a lot of motorway and dual carriageway riding, and after being scared to death not being able to find a petrol station, I finally filled up at 265! I had previously run dry at 240, so that was a bit worrying... A few weekends ago I managed 235, the bike was coughing for about a mile, but I made it to the pump, oddly with half a litre to spare according to it. Having said that I have on one occasion managed to put in OVER 15 litres, which makes you wonder how accurate the pumps are, and how nominal the tank capacity is. I do wonder sometimes if it isn't affected by how well you've put it back on the bike when it's been off.

Is it me, or does running out of puff at 110 suggest the bike might be restricted, or that there's something very wrong somewhere, maybe the filter is full of crap? My 116000km example pulls from just about tickover in top gear around town, although if you open it up too quickly at that sort of speed it does chug a bit... lol Middle is a little flat these days, but if you keep it wound up it'll still quite happily keep reaching toward the red until you give it another gear. I don't generally go too mad in the higher gears these days as I'm getting for too old and responsible, but I did see over 13 in top the other week... When I first got the bike it happily went past the last mark on the speedo and was still going before I decided to slow down a bit and be sensible!