NC30 fuse + rectifier burnouts

[gyro]

Hi all, been off 2 wheels for a bit and haven't been here for a while. Couldn't see this is covered before but need some help with an issue....

So I got my NC30 for its mot 2 weeks ago-had issues starting it up but had battery on charge for a while and it seemed to do the trick. Got it thro the MOT tho the front brake doesn't seem to operate the brake light any more (the back brake does)....

Today tried to start the bike and it was flat - as in nothing at all, not even weak lights. Odd thing was the alarm which normally has a mind of its own wasn't pipping away too - a first.

Put a brand new battery in and same thing! Totally nothing and alarm didn't pip as battery was reconnected as usual.

Found a 30a fuse to one side of the battery area had blown. Changed this and within 5seconds the rectifier (on other side to fuse) started fizzing and smoking then the same fuse blew.
Tried again and managed to start the bike before same again - smoke and fizzing from the rectifier til fuse popped.

Does this sound like the rectifier itself or something else.......?
Don't wanna buy a new one and find out this isn't the issue........

Any help appreciated please!

[magg]

Sounds like Rect/reg has internal short, which will discharge the battery and/or blow the fuse. Once the rect/reg is replaced you should check the charging system to ensure that at 5000 rpm the battery voltage is greater than 13 volts but less than 15 volts.

Your batteries may be ok provided the fuse went before they were over discharged. A load test of each battery after charging will indicate if they are serviceable. A load test is how long it takes for battery voltage to drop to 11 volts with the headlights ON. Any time greater than 20 mins is good. DO NOT LET THE BATTERY VOLTAGE DROP BELOW 11 VOLTS.

[gyro]

Thanks for that!
Will go ahead then and get another RR first

Anyone know if the ones on eBay any good - around £15-20??