How do I get a nice clean start?

[iDemonix]

When I came home from Uni for a friends birthday, I expected the bike to hate me for two months of neglect. To cut a long story short it took an entire afternoon of bump starting, charging, trying to get my breath back, repeat, etc. Eventually on something like the 20th attempt she bumped in to life and after a quick 30 minute ride, I could kill the engine and fire her back up instantly. The next morning, she fired straight up again.

Anyway, gone back to uni for a month and now I'm home for xmas, same story. After three attempts on the starter with no biting, the battery flattened. I'm looking at buying a car this week or the next, so I'm hoping that over winter I can do any work the bike needs in prep for spring.

To do: change oil, change oil filter, change air filter, replace spark plugs. If I grow a pair of bollocks, valve clearances.

My bike's never been the best at starting up, I think this time it doesn't help that the battery only gives me 3-4 attempts at firing for 5-8 seconds before it's empty, so I think a new battery is on the cards.

What's the best way to get a really nice start? I'm guessing a complete carb strip, clean and rebuild? Then a carb sync? Would valve clearances make a difference? I love having an old bike like an NC30, but the biggest downside compared to a modern bike is my mates can leave there modern bikes for months and fire 'em up after a trickle charge, mine takes an afternoon fighting, it's my biggest pet peeve.

[Drunkn Munky]

Just the basics mate,

good plugs
a working electrical system
well setup carbs
a clean air filter
and yes correct valve clearences will help

if all thats in order then you could leave her all year and she'll fire on the button, stick with it mate modern bikes have no soul :)

[iDemonix]

Plugs I'll replace just for the sake of it
Electrical system seems A-OK bar some funny light connection now/then
Carbs - not touched 'em since owning
Air filter - year old, new one will be en route
Valve clearances - I'll try grow a pair

If she's stood for a month though with the fuel tank switched off, how long should it take on the button to draw fuel through? Also when people say full choke, do they REALLY mean all of the lever? Because if I set mine to as much as possible she'll idle at 5k immediately and I have to push it straight back down to about half way at most.

[Drunkn Munky]

It shouldnt take long to start at all and yes full choke, no throttle and hold the starter for just a few seconds at a time. Ive never had one that shot straight up to 5k from cold, usually takes a while then i adjust choke to suit. Sounds like you need to give the carbs some love, not a hard job really, cammo's guide is very good.

Bikes with no standard intake systems can vary on start up procedure but im assuming yours is standard. dont be tempted to fit the race spec ER10 plugs, there fine but can be hard to start from cold and easily killed.

[Bike_Nut]

My bike starts straight away even after months of standing, provided I do it right.

From cold you need full choke, dont touch the throttle at all, and press the starter. You can knock the choke down a notch or two after it has started but dont skimp on choke.

If you think an NC30 is bad you should try kick starting a 4 stroke big thumper like a 426 Yamaha when its hot and flooded, your knockered and knee deep in mud!

I think a lot of NC's have needle and seats that weep a bit of fuel into the cylinders, and fuel taps that dont quite seal so they can wet the plugs easily and then wont start at all till you take the plugs out and clean them. On mine, if it will be standing for a while, I will switch off the fuel tap first then leave a few seconds before killing the engine as it empties the float chambers a little. Provided all the settings are correct your bike will suck fuel through with no problem - its the too much fuel that causes the problem

[jetblack]

e
Valve clearances - I'll try grow a pair

Im in Nottingham mate and did my clearances back in the spring so shout up if you want a hand...more than happy to dust the tools off...

[magg]

Helps to keep the battery fully charged if not running the bike for a time, particularly as the battery gets older and its performance starts to fade. Good option is to trickle charge to the battery during the longer idle periods.

[Neosophist]

What's the best way to get a really nice start? I'm guessing a complete carb strip, clean and rebuild? Then a carb sync? Would valve clearances make a difference? I love having an old bike like an NC30, but the biggest downside compared to a modern bike is my mates can leave there modern bikes for months and fire 'em up after a trickle charge, mine takes an afternoon fighting, it's my biggest pet peeve.

My bike started up Sunday first touch of the button after 3 weeks of standing. (Full choke / no throttle)

As been said.

1. Make sure your valve clearances are in spec,
2. Make sure your carbs are setup properly (clean jets / proper float heights and pilot screw / working choke lever)
3. Balance carbs for a smoother tick over.
4. Plugs and battery in good condition.

Providing the above are within Honda tolerances these bikes fire right up on the button, it's only if you have drained the carbs they can take a little to get going, mainly due to the vaccum tap, but this is just a case of full choke / no throttle and a 5 second blip, 2 min rest and it'll go.