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Installing Ethos full system
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:16 pm
by Sligeach
Looking for some advice on the install guys.
After a lot of skinned knuckles and hours of messing i finally got the OEM system off and thankfully all the studs came out with the nuts.
So i got new studs and installed them again after much skinned knuckles and then went about putting on the exhaust collars with brand new copper Gaskets.
I thought i was making good progress until i went to start the bike and find out that all collars are leaking and the bike sounds like a heap of shite.
So the question is how do you know when you have tightened the exhaust nuts sufficiently so they are not leaking. Right now i have them tightened to the point that the stud it just flush with the nut.
Second thing is, are the springs sufficient or should i be using some exhaust paste?
Re: Installing Ethos full system
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:25 pm
by big stink
Hi. I tend to fit an exhaust system tightening all the nuts until i THINK they are tight enough, then start it up and if it leaks at the head just nip it up until it stops leaking as the bike is running. It sounds like you have done all the right things, if that doesnt work you may have to buy another set of copper rings and anneal them to make them softer. As for the collars, yep a dab of past should sort that out no probs! Hope this helps.
Re: Installing Ethos full system
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:22 pm
by Neosophist
yep
i tighten them when its running if its leaking.
a proper set of extension bars, flexible joints and what not help no end.
after binning the 30 a few weeks ago i removed the standard muffler as its trashed and replaced it with new gaskets and a yamamoto system in about 40 minutes.
removing the heatshield helps, if your really struggling, remoivng the plastic undertray and subframe makes it a doddle
Re: Installing Ethos full system
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:14 pm
by iDemonix
I had a big headache tightening up to remove leaks, I never thought to do it with the bike running, d'oh!
I'd do fronts first, swing the rad forwards and I found if you can get a large extension bar up there with an elbow joint (or w/e you call 'em) it should be easy to get to all four bolts. The rears were a bit more difficult but still possible with an elbow + extension.
Re: Installing Ethos full system
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:20 pm
by Neosophist
oh i forgot to mention, put your hand over the endcan to build up backpressure to easily identify leaks.
the bolts dont have to be supertight as they are crush washers but they pipes do need to be in properly and central.. if your rears are pulling at an angle etc it:ll never seal.
with the 3 bolts on the stubby to down pipes i usually do them up very loose then work from top bottom middle a few turns on each to ensure that the pipes are compressed equally, also making sure there in straight.. for this i dont bolt the end-can to the subframe until its done nor do up the front pipes as it allows you to move the systme about until it is flush and level and can seal properly.
Re: Installing Ethos full system
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:51 am
by porndoguk
Sligeach wrote:Looking for some advice on the install guys.
After a lot of skinned knuckles and hours of messing i finally got the OEM system off and thankfully all the studs came out with the nuts.
So i got new studs and installed them again after much skinned knuckles and then went about putting on the exhaust collars with brand new copper Gaskets.
I thought i was making good progress until i went to start the bike and find out that all collars are leaking and the bike sounds like a heap of shite.
some monkey had put copper washers over the old copper washers, so there were two making a crap seal, just double check there aint 2 squahed in there!
So the question is how do you know when you have tightened the exhaust nuts sufficiently so they are not leaking. Right now i have them tightened to the point that the stud it just flush with the nut.
Second thing is, are the springs sufficient or should i be using some exhaust paste?
i use clear silicon its what most mechanics use it can handle extreme tempartures believe it or not!