NC 24 cold start problem

[Neosophist]

Thats the carbutettor petrol overflow pipe, it isn't connected to anything, it should go through that hoop you can see in the first picture.

Take a picture of your throttle stop set-up (the thing the thottle cables goto)

Pulling it back will buggar the idle up though, you are supposed to screw the idle adjuster up to set the idle, this stops the throttle from closing completely. Then you adjust the throttle cable slack.

Check out the basic maintaiance section in the NC30 shop manual for setting up idle speed

[DanieS]

This is what it looks like without tuching the trotol.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff31 ... ormal1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff31 ... Normal.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and this is how it looks when i puch the trotol close.
Note i didn't touch the idle ajust screw.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff31 ... orword.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Neosophist]

You need to screw the idle screw up a bit so it just makes contact without you touching the throttle, This will prevent you from turning the throttle back to stall the bike.

Once you've done that adjust the slack out the throttle cables, all of this is in the haynes book and routine maintanace of workshop manual

[DanieS]

I did everythig as to how to ajust the cables but still no luck the ideling stays at 3000 rpm if the bike is hot even without any cabels on the throttle stop set-up.

I noticed that the No1 and No4 exhaust's arent as hot as the ather 2?

is the bace carb for the NC24 also the No2 carb?
Will a normal vacume gage work for carb Sync?

Where can i find the Common Service Manual?

[Cammo]

It sounds likely that you have an air leak in the rubber manifolds. This will prevent it from starting easily and raise the revs at idle when warm. The garage could easily have mounted them badly (easy to miss if not working on these day in and out).

The other thing to check would be pilot screw settings, too rich and the idle will be very high.

The best advice I think anyone on here could give would be to take it to someone that knows these V4's inside out, something is amiss on yours.

There are some pro's on here regarding tuning/fixing these bikes for a fee, alternatively any forum members nearby??

[DanieS]

Is there any forum guys in SA???
The only tuner i can think of is Racebox in Sa they only work on VFR's RVF's and VTR's.
They don't do any ather bikes.

[Neosophist]

Colder exhaust pipes means your carbs are not balanced properly, you balance them by turning the 3 adjustment screws so NO 1,3,4 match number 2. If your idle isn't behaving properly balancing them is futile as that wont' fix the problem.

Righty-o. From what i've read you have like a million different symptoms. Who worked on your bike last? Check all of the things I list below that may be causing your problems before you overhaul the carbs youself.

Check me first in this order

Airleak

Leaking air can cause hard starting and erratic idle.

[1] Have a look inbetween the V of the engine at the rubbers the carbs attatch to, are the carbs sitting properly, nothing is caught in the rubbers and the jubilee clamps are tighteed up?

[2] Vaccumn take-off screws. There are 4 of these, 1 in each cylinder with a washer on them, if they are loose they can leak air, check they are all tight, (these are what you remove to connect a vaccumn gauge too)

[3] Fuel tank vaccumn take-off. This is a pipe that comes from cylinder #1 to the fuel tank, make sure it's not split / leaking air as these are notorious for going brittle over-time.

Choke

Check the choke isn't staying on, when you move the choke lever it pulls out a set of rods on the carbs, make sure these are going fully back into the carbs when you turn the choke lever off.

Mixture/

If there are no air leaks, reset the pilot screws. These are on the sides of the NC24 carbs, you CAN adjust them with the carbs in the engine, it is just fiddley and you will need a long, flat screwdriver. The pilot screw is at the back of the carbs near the engine, you can access two from each side of the V, screw them fully in, until they just become tight, DO NOT overtighten them. Then unscrew each one 2.5 turns (900 degrees)

If none of the above solves your problems then i'd recommend over-hauling the carbs and checking everything yourself...

I'm gonna write up a quick guide to overhauling the carbs on your NC24, if you follow this you shouldnt' have any problems after.

Remove Carbs

1. Remove front lower fairings, the nose-cone can stay on the bike.
2. Remove rear-side fairings.
3. Remove Seat (2 bolts)
4. Remove Tank, 3 x 10mm bolts. Careful when disconnecting the fuel and vaccumn hoses.
5. Disconnect breather hose from airbox
6. Remove Airfilter cover, 7 x No2 Philips Screws
7. Remove Airfilter then bottom half of airbox, 5 x No 2 Philips Screws.
8. Unscrew 2 x 8mm bolts that hold the plate that the front coils are attatched to and move it out the way
9. Unscrew the choke cable from the carbs, 1 x Philips No 2 Screw.
10. Loosen the jubilee clips that hold the carbs to the engine rubbers (top clip on each rubber x 4) and pull the carbs out, can be a bit stiff!

Overhaul Carbs

1. You can work on them all together, 99% of all of the bits are the same so they won't get mixed up.
2. Remove the float bowls, these are on the bottom of the carbs, there are 3 x Philips No 2 screws in each one.
3. Check the jet sizes, these are stamped on the brass jets, the pilot jets should be 35 and the main jets should all be 115
4. Remove the 4 x screws from the top of each carb to remove the slider and diaphram, check there are no holes in the diaphraghm.
5. Blow compressed air through all the jets and passageways. Carb cleaner helps here, if not use petrol / kerosene (no smoking at this point!)
6. Turn all 4 of the pilot screws fully in until they just become tight, then unscrew them 2.5 turns (900 degrees) out.
7. Measure the float-heights of each carb, they should be 6.8mm from the gasket surface or there abouts, all of them should ideally be within 1mm of each other.
8. If you remove the emulsion tubes from the carbs (the thing the main jet screws into) the carbs that feed the rear-cylinders have an extra hole in them compared to the front, these are the only parts that can be mixed up so it's worth checking some numpty hasn't put them in the wrong way.
9. Make sure everythign is clean and put back together properly, the diaphram / sliders can only go in one way as theres a rubber loop that lines them up.

Remount Carbs

This bit needs to be done properly as air-leaks here will wreck everythign else.

1. Check the rubbers that connect the carbs to the engine are all in good condition and are not rock hard and cracked. They are marked "Carb" on the one side, this is the side that you should be able to read when they are connected to the engine. They do line up a specific way, if you look at the diagram below you'll see that the word CARB which is stamped on the rubber should face the front of the engine if that makes sense.

Front Cylinders.

[------------------------]
[ CARB CARB ]
[ O O ]
[------------------------]

2. A smear of grease around the rubbers will help the carbs slide onto the rubbers.
3. Make sure all the clips are level and the carbs are pushed on as much as they will go, then tighten all of the jubilee clamps back up.

Put everything else back together

Follow disassembley guides above.

[DanieS]

Cool this will realy help me.
If i do it myself i will take photo's as well.
I will begin this weekend and try to sort out the problems.

[Sligeach]

Is there any forum guys in SA???

Try and PM the forum members

nakes
adibtanah
Vlade

i thiink rhey are all from SA