NC30 front fork RO kit install

[Mr_Fen]

hi,
I have purchased the fork kit from Rick Oliver as one of my fork oil seals has failed and thought I might as well do the upgrade at the same time. I have stripped the bike down to begin the job only to discover its way beyond my facilities (workshop and mental) to complete.

My question is should I tighten everything back up and take the bike to a mechanic to install the kit,
or
finish removing the forks and deliver them and the kit to get them serviced?

I'm not exactly sure which would be the cheapest method or which would be 'appreciated more' by the garage?

[geebus]

i took my forks to the garage with the parts. They seemed much happier to do that than take the forks off the bike.

[lizard821000]

there really isnt much to the forks tbh mate, unless you hit a problem like a seal wont budge lol like mine..... have a go i would and save your self prob 120 notes.

shaun

oh and sorry, answer to your question would be , take forks in OFF the bike....it will keep the cost down, they ll charge see for removing them and putting them back on....id say for the pair to be rebuilt though even off the bike your looking at 120 odd.

[spanky]

What is it you think is beyond your abilities. Like everything, its not as complicated as it looks once you get going and afterwards you'll wonder what the fuss was about.
Are they new type or old type forks? If you say where you're stuck we can probably talk you though it.

[Mr_Fen]

ok Spanky here goes

I have read through the instructions a few times as they always seem to get past a few steps then say 'if you are doing this, you should of done this 30 minutes ago or your screwed'

first issue:
I have adjusted the pretensioner down to the minimum as recommended, but I can't 'pre-loose' the fork top nut while still in the headstock. I have the right sized socket (same as the front wheel nut) but it won't budge. I have sprayed WD40 and used a longer bar for leverage but its not moving.

second issue:
Haynes says you need to place the fork into a bench vice to do something, I haven't got one. It also says you need an assistant to compress the fork at some point while you undo something else, I haven't got a 'willing' one of those either

I was hoping to get this done this weekend so I can use the bike next weekend. I have SMS'ed my father-in-law to see if I can use his garage but I don't know if his is any better equipped or if I will get time to tinker this weekend. Its 1.5 hours drive away and I still need to get the forks off, and given the two issues above if he doesn't have a bench vice then I'm screwed regardless.

[lizard821000]

alright pal, first, dont you have loosen the damper nut, not tighten it up!? second, get your self a rubber pipe wrench so you can clamp on to the tube while your trying to undo the top nut, there only fiver in machine mart or sell everywhere, b&q for EX.

3rd, you dont really need to put that much pressure down like the haynes says, just loosen the hex drain bolt undernith with as much compression you can manage, should be fine.

4th, same when undoing the top, just keep slight pressure on the nut/wrench when undoing the top coz it is spring loaded put not alot, trust me, wont pop out and blind you.

5th, after removing all the manual says, c-clip too then you need to separate the tubes, as long as your forks arnt bent or your bushes arnt completly shagged, it will be easy.... just hold both ends in each hand and use the weight of the forks to slide hammer the 2 parts apart.... like in the haynes....very rare to have to use a vice tbh.

HTH

shaun

[thrasher]

just done 2 sets of forks recently with ricks kit "first time".
what we did was back off preload fully on fork tops,undo top yoke pinch bolts then loosen fork tops with 24mm spanner.
then undo bottom pinch bolt and remove forks.then undo bottom damper bolt "if needed tighten preload fully to put pressure on damper rod".
remove damper bolt and backoff preload fully then remove fork top loosened earier.slide down stanchion to remove fork top from damper rod then drain oil and remove split washer,washer,spacer,washer,spring,damper,locator.
pop off dust seal ,remove retaining oil seal clip then pull sharply apart until two halves separate.remove oil seal and washer below it.

[Mr_Fen]

undo top yoke pinch bolts then loosen fork tops with 24mm spanner

ah, I was trying to loosen this bolt without undoing the top yoke pinch bolts
might try again..

cheers for the pointers so far

[spanky]

Good on you for having a go... Fork tops aren't normally hard to undo - they don't need to be massively tight to seal. If the fork tops are flush with the top yoke then you'll def need to slacken the top yoke off so guessing you've sorted that now.

Important thing to do is get the bottom bolt slackened off and thats easier with the fork assembled - you can hold the fork leg upside down and compress it; that puts pressure on the internals and stops them spinning as you turn the allen bolt. If you find the bolt turns but doesn't undo you can strip the forks then push a wooden broomstick handle down the top of the fork and use that to hold the internals still instead - definatley try the first way first though.

[uber pikey]

Where do you live? I would be more than happy to help you out this week if you are still struggling and if you are close enough to me, I am near Telford if that helps.