I've just been checking my valve clearences today and once I put everyting back together I tried to start the bike but all that happened was the solnoid clicked!
I ve checked the battery and that good, and all the fuses which were all good as well I can't find any disconnected wires anywhere and the solnoid gets hot when I try to start it!
Could I have burnt somthing out by accidently crushing a wire when re attaching the tank?

Any ideas would be very helpful I realy don't want to have to wait to long to ride it again as it's such nice weather!

If it comes to it I'll pay a auto electricion but could do with out the expense at the moment!

Right.

How did you check the battery was good? A clicking from the solenoid usually either means one of two things.

1. The battery is dead / dying

2. The starter motor or engine is jammed.

Put the bike into 2nd or 3rd gear and try to rock it backwards and forwards gently with the clutch out, this should turn the engine over, if it doesnt somethings jammed up somewhere.

If it turns over try pressing the starter button again

I'd say the battery is fubar.

Don't forget, even a dead battery can still read 12v-14v on a meter but it will completely die under load. This is what a lot of people fail to understand...

The battery was replaced last month and is a sealed type battery but I also checked it by using the battery off the triumph which is also very good it has to be to turn over a 900 triple lol
I'm starting to think somthings jammed up but I will check later this morning!

The starter wire was getting hot when I tried to start it and before it stop turning over it made a weezing sound like it had a low battery current!

Is it possible the starter motor has siezed or has fried the bushs?

I'm gona try bump starting it later to see if it will start and then take it for a ride and try starting it off the button again if no joy I'll be looking into starter prices, there's a few on eBay!

thunderace wrote:I'd say the battery is fubar.

Don't forget, even a dead battery can still read 12v-14v on a meter but it will completely die under load. This is what a lot of people fail to understand...

LOL, I put the battery tester onto my bike's battery the other day.

12.5V and 12 CCA... Obviously I got a new one

Vfr400/tbird wrote:The battery was replaced last month and is a sealed type battery but I also checked it by using the battery off the triumph which is also very good it has to be to turn over a 900 triple lol
I'm starting to think somthings jammed up but I will check later this morning!

The starter wire was getting hot when I tried to start it and before it stop turning over it made a weezing sound like it had a low battery current!

Is it possible the starter motor has siezed or has fried the bushs?

I'm gona try bump starting it later to see if it will start and then take it for a ride and try starting it off the button again if no joy I'll be looking into starter prices, there's a few on eBay!

I'd still be checking the battery via a load test, most Halfrauds will do this FOC.

Other than that, it sounds like you need to be checking the wiring out, especially the earths. Hot cables usually means a bad connection somewhere. Lets rule this out before you go spending money on motors.

Starter motor is fine tried it via a positive feed from the battery to the terminal on the starter itself and it spins and starts the bike fine!

But when trying the same from the solnoid it just click so im guessing wirings amiss in the battery to solnoid circuit somwhere!

But now i have a more worrying issue, upon starting the bike it smoked from the rear rocker cover gasket, so i checked it and it seems ok, but when i checked the tightness of the bolts (on rocker cover) 3 of them where lose i tried tightening but to no avail as they were all snaped!!!!
So now ive got a running bike without a tight rocker cover and i have to use jump leads in order to start it!

But at least it runs

How do you go about removing old bolt threads from the cylinder head, is there a tool i can use (they cant be very tight as i never quite got that far!)?

I might just by pass the switch when starting, just by some heavy gauge wire and a switch and make my own ignition/start button, it would look quite cool if it would work!

Dont bodge it.

The starter solenoid could be duff, they sometimes sieze.. try banging the soloid quite hard with the handle end of a screwdriver (not hard enough to dent it obv)

If its clicking its getting juice but not passing the current through to the starter..

either the starter wire is broken or the solenoid is duffed out, ive had them stick before, a bang sometimes works.

if not i probably have a spare solenoid you could have to isolate

if you get the rocker box off is there any thread showing on the snapped bolts.. if there is then get a pair of good pliers and unscrew the bolts!

If not you can drill a small hole in them and use a screw extractor which is a left handed screw that screws into the hole to undo the remaining thread

If it works fine when hot wired, I would be looking for a new solenoid. Plenty on eBay for little money, even brand new OE spec ones for about £18.

I've taken it to a mate who's an engineer to remove the old bolts and he's going to look the start problem so hopfully he might have more luck than me!
Are the rocker cover bolts usualy so weak?

The solnoid is taking current but not putting out current so i think your right also the terminal that goes to the starter wire doesn't appear to tighten up it just spins like it's snapped internaly if this is the case I'm guessing that this might explain why there's no power coming from that terminal!