Installing Shim on Rear Shock and Removing tank..

[silentRVF]

I need to remove the wheels so I can stick new tyres on them.. I'm having a problem with my rear tyre deflating itself (alot).. So I've decided I won't ride my bike anymore, and I will get my local shop to give the wheel and valve a good check.. and if they look fine, hopefully the new tyre will fix it :)

Quick question regarding the rear wheel: do you need to use a new split pin each time? And where can I get one? (I want to get this done next week and would prefer not to have to wait weeks for it to come from overseas..

I've also read that raising the height of the rear of the bike makes a massive difference in handling on these bikes.

I have placed a bid on this item, but not quite sure how to install the shim...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT

I've just looked in the Haynes manual at the section which tells you how to remove the rear shock and it's just confused me even more.. Will I be able to unscrew the shock with the exhaust in place, or will I only need to remove the rear seat cowling and the RHS rearset? (What am I even unscrewing? Am I unscrewing the shock, or the top shock bolt?) Is it easy to access and will I need any special tools to access whatever it is I need to undo?

I have a SS swingarm stand but how do I support the frame? Can I just stick some wood under the rear tyre to support it?

Also, do I need to take note of any settings before I unscrew the shock/shock bolt so I can do it up the same?

Sorry about all the noob questions. I'm still new to bikes so trying to get my head around all this.. but I'm eager to learn and I'll give anything a go!

Cheers

[Drunkn Munky]

You dont have to use a new split pin everytime but it makes sense, a new looks better than a mangled up used one anyway. Order a big box of em off ebay or get a R clip as pictured below

DSC03269 [800x600].jpg

Yep raising the rear does help out the handling, you shouldnt need to remove the complete shock to install that shim. Put the bike up on the rear stand, put some axle stands under the footpegs, remove the rear stand, remove the seat panels for access, undo the top shock mount on top of the frame enough to slide the shim in between the frame and top of the shock. You may need to drop the shock further to fit it but i doubt it.
If you do need to remove the shock then yes its easier with the exhaust removed but it can be done with it still in place and no settings need to be taken first, if your unsure of what needs to be undone then i suggest you read the haynes manual again and have a good look at the linkage then all should fall into place.

[silentRVF]

You dont have to use a new split pin everytime but it makes sense, a new looks better than a mangled up used one anyway. Order a big box of em off ebay or get a R clip as pictured below
DONE - got some R clips from eBay

Yep raising the rear does help out the handling, you shouldnt need to remove the complete shock to install that shim. Put the bike up on the rear stand, put some axle stands under the footpegs, remove the rear stand, remove the seat panels for access, undo the top shock mount on top of the frame enough to slide the shim in between the frame and top of the shock. You may need to drop the shock further to fit it but i doubt it.
If you do need to remove the shock then yes its easier with the exhaust removed but it can be done with it still in place and no settings need to be taken first, if your unsure of what needs to be undone then i suggest you read the haynes manual again and have a good look at the linkage then all should fall into place.
I don't have axle stands so will make do with 2 car jacks.. When you say remove the seat panels, do you just mean the rear seat cowling fairing?
OK I'm looking at the Haynes manual right now... On page 6-20, is it the nut that is arrowed in image 10.4c on the bottom-left corner of the page? I'm guessing I loosen that nut, slide the shim underneath the frame, hold it in place and then tighten the nut so that the shim stays in place.. Is this right?

Thanks for your help mate. This is one of very few forums where I can ask a question, to which the answer is often very simple to you guys, but still receive an answer which educates me and helps me do whatever the hell it is I'm trying to achieve :)

[Drunkn Munky]

Yes thats the nut. To be honest im not totally sure what panels you need to remove but it should be pretty obvious, its been a long time since ive worked on a RVF with standard panels so cant be 100% sure

Stick around its a great forum, some forums (i wont mention) do wind me up when all you get in response to your questions is "piss off and go use the search function" which is fair enough to a extent but if there going to the trouble of writing that response why not atleast just point the person in the right direction? it is a forum after all and although the answers seem simple enough to many if your not familar with the bike it may aswell be in french.

oh and yes the procedure of fitting the shim is as you've described

[silentRVF]

Got the shim in the mail today and I thought it was a practical joke - it looks too small to make such a big difference to the handling! The eBay listing claims it raises the height of the rear of the bike by 11mm.. I guess the effects of it are multiplied because of the location on the bike that it goes..

Anyways, can anyone confirm exactly where that top shock mount bolt is on the NC35? The Haynes manual sort of makes it confusing.. I'm guessing taking the seats off and rear seat cowling will give me access to it but I haven't even had the chance to look at my bike in the past week..

EDIT: Is it best to do this job with the front wheel on the stand or sitting on the ground?

If not, I'm sure I will figure it out for myself on the weekend after I get these bloody Uni assignments sorted!!

Cheers guys!
PS: Got new Dunlop GPRA-12's on, which will hopefully sort the issue of losing pressure in my rear tyre and give me heaps more grip!

[J.B.]

OK I'm looking at the Haynes manual right now... On page 6-20, is it the nut that is arrowed in image 10.4c on the bottom-left corner of the page? I'm guessing I loosen that nut, slide the shim underneath the frame, hold it in place and then tighten the nut so that the shim stays in place.. Is this right?[/b]

Yes and yes.

I didn't use car stands (they don't work that well with OEM rear sets). Loosen the shock top nut and have an assistant (sober) rock the bike up on it's side stand until the rear wheel is just off the ground unloading the rear suspension. Insert the shim and tighten the nut to spec.

IIRC you only have to remove the seat cowling.

How thick is the shim you bought? If you keep going in this direction you might want to consider a steering damper.

[silentRVF]

The shim I bought is 3mm thick:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 663wt_1137

Hmm I will try the car jacks. However, if I'm not liking how they hold the bike up, I will get an assistant to swing the bike up onto its stand..

I'm not going to spend any money on steering dampers/upgrading forks or shocks as I'm only riding on the road. I just wanted to stick this shim in because I heard it makes a big difference, and it was less than $10 posted

Thanks mate :)

[silentRVF]

Just had a look and I don't trust the rearsets.. I'll just get someone to balance the bike's weight on the side stand while I install the shim as JB suggested..

Also, after removing the seat cowl I can see the nut and can access it with a spanner but looks like I'll have to pull the tank off to get proper access to it..

Is there anything to take care of when removing the tank, or is it as simple as removing the bolt holding it to the frame, detach the 4 hoses and lift it off?

Cheers

[Speedy]

Just had a look and I don't trust the rearsets.. I'll just get someone to balance the bike's weight on the side stand while I install the shim as JB suggested..

Also, after removing the seat cowl I can see the nut and can access it with a spanner but looks like I'll have to pull the tank off to get proper access to it..

Is there anything to take care of when removing the tank, or is it as simple as removing the bolt holding it to the frame, detach the 4 hoses and lift it off?

Cheers

Yeah, pretty much! Pull up slightly at the back and slide it backwards to unhook at the front.
Take note of which hose goes where though; also make sure the vaccum hose (the one that goes from the tank to the side of rear right cylinder - #3) is in good condition and when you fit it back, it isn't kinked.

[Quo Vadas]

I also just bought a shim to install and this thread has helped me in putting it on the bike.
The notes the seller gave to me weren't very helpful but the job is now done..........sweeet!