you guys are not gona believe this shit!
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you guys are not gona believe this shit!
we finally sorted out my bikes problem( the flooding of the one cylinder) but the carbs on my bike belongs to a NC24 or something. WTF!!! why would someone even do that? thats why i could get rid of my flat spot...
does anybody hav a setting like this?
does anybody hav a setting like this?
- porndoguk
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
Pictures?mambraNC30 wrote:we finally sorted out my bikes problem( the flooding of the one cylinder) but the carbs on my bike belongs to a NC24 or something. WTF!!! why would someone even do that? thats why i could get rid of my flat spot...
does anybody hav a setting like this?
- CMSMJ1
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
They are a related carb but I can imagine what a ballache trying to srt it out would be...
NC30 carbs can be had cheap enough...
NC30 carbs can be had cheap enough...
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
Or Something?mambraNC30 wrote:we finally sorted out my bikes problem( the flooding of the one cylinder) but the carbs on my bike belongs to a NC24 or something. WTF!!! why would someone even do that? thats why i could get rid of my flat spot...
does anybody hav a setting like this?
The NC24 carbs are a lot closer to the HRC set-up as stock an the NC30 carbs.
There VDE's like the NC30 carbs, albeit air jet changes.
Should be fairly easy to sort them out if your handy with tuning carbs. Do you have pictures / numbers from the carbs and I can tell you what there off.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- superlite
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
True that. Not a backwards step by any means. But not ideal if you're after a standard NC30 set-up. Just changing the jetting to standard NC30 should see them running fine on an NC30 - if you can get some NC30 velocity stacks that'd be a help tooNeosophist wrote:The NC24 carbs are a lot closer to the HRC set-up as stock an the NC30 carbs.
On the upside, you'll probably make more power with the NC24 carbs with NC30 stacks and jetted to suit your bike

'Take it to the Back'
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
i meant to say: i still cant get rid of that stupid flat spot between 5 and 7 rpm.
velocity stacks? would that be those rubbers poking upwards under the filter or wat. im not sure wat you talking about...
i dont have any pics. camera has been stollen
"Neosophist.There VDE's like the NC30 carbs, albeit air jet changes." in English plz.
i will check for numbers tonight (any idea where on the carbs it is?)
NC30 carbies cost R3 000 here in Cape Town friggin exspensive. almost the price of a full motor in cluding carbs. lol its crazy
we had a set NC30 carbies next to mine. the differences i could see was, the 30 accelerator spring was shorter and the 30's had a extra brass valve thing next to the intake coming from the air filter. the filter box is standard NC30 and everything on top of the carb is standard NC30.
now that you mention my carbs use to have hrc diaphrams in (with the curved edge)
power was kickout 53BHP when i last had it on the dyno
my exhaust system isnt standard.
velocity stacks? would that be those rubbers poking upwards under the filter or wat. im not sure wat you talking about...
i dont have any pics. camera has been stollen

"Neosophist.There VDE's like the NC30 carbs, albeit air jet changes." in English plz.
i will check for numbers tonight (any idea where on the carbs it is?)
NC30 carbies cost R3 000 here in Cape Town friggin exspensive. almost the price of a full motor in cluding carbs. lol its crazy

we had a set NC30 carbies next to mine. the differences i could see was, the 30 accelerator spring was shorter and the 30's had a extra brass valve thing next to the intake coming from the air filter. the filter box is standard NC30 and everything on top of the carb is standard NC30.
now that you mention my carbs use to have hrc diaphrams in (with the curved edge)
power was kickout 53BHP when i last had it on the dyno
my exhaust system isnt standard.
- superlite
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
I reckon you need to get into the carbs and see what jets, needles, settings are in there. There shouldn't be any huge issues running those carbs on your bike. If they're standard internally, the biggest problem may be the smaller main jets they run compared with the NC30 (I'm assuming this is a fresh Japanese import). Are they still running the HRC velocity stacks (what you refer to as diaphragms)? If so, that won't be helping.
Shame about your camera, because photos would help.
Shame about your camera, because photos would help.
'Take it to the Back'
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
わからない。。 My post was in English.
However that wasn't
VDE are the type of carbs, in essence both sets of carbs are very similar, only with jetting (air and fuel) changes as well as changes to the slides themselves.
Since your carbs have knackered float needles they need sorting first.
What size jets are you running in there... A hole in the mid-range is typical of the fuel / air mixutre on these bikes going 'lean' A dyno would confirm that if your unsure.
The most common way to remedy the lean spot is to raise the needles, this allows more fuel / air mix into the engine.
This is done by putting a small shim washer under the needles of the carbs.. typically 0.5mm or 1.0mm depending on how lean the bikes running.
Have a look at the needles, (remove the diaphram caps and spring and the needles drop out) if theres any washers under there already try taking them out and seeing how it runs.. if its' better you know to lower the needles, if it's worse they need raising...
However that wasn't

VDE are the type of carbs, in essence both sets of carbs are very similar, only with jetting (air and fuel) changes as well as changes to the slides themselves.
Since your carbs have knackered float needles they need sorting first.
What size jets are you running in there... A hole in the mid-range is typical of the fuel / air mixutre on these bikes going 'lean' A dyno would confirm that if your unsure.
The most common way to remedy the lean spot is to raise the needles, this allows more fuel / air mix into the engine.
This is done by putting a small shim washer under the needles of the carbs.. typically 0.5mm or 1.0mm depending on how lean the bikes running.
Have a look at the needles, (remove the diaphram caps and spring and the needles drop out) if theres any washers under there already try taking them out and seeing how it runs.. if its' better you know to lower the needles, if it's worse they need raising...
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
Try this guy for a set of carbs, I got a rear shock from him at a fair price:
http://capetown.gumtree.co.za/c-Cars-Ve ... Z202665356
I also found this ad - Carbs for R800:
http://capetown.gumtree.co.za/c-Cars-Ve ... Z224570898
http://capetown.gumtree.co.za/c-Cars-Ve ... Z202665356
I also found this ad - Carbs for R800:
http://capetown.gumtree.co.za/c-Cars-Ve ... Z224570898
- Cammo
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Re: you guys are not gona believe this shit!
I think the best thing to do would be to get some nc30 carbs on it.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks