nc24 clutch

[lowrider]

hi got the vfr running after some serious confusion with the vacuum pipe on the fuel tap. but the clutch doesnt seem to be doing anything. if you try starting it with it in gear an the clutch in the back wheel spins an you cant push it whilst its in gear. a friend told me that this is just cos its been sat a while an when it warms up an i go to ride it the clutch should free itself an work. any ideas would be much appreciated. also does anyone know of anywhere i can get a kit to rebuild my brake calipers an also my fuel tap, as it leaks from the 10mm nut on the bottom, i took the o-ring out that looks fine so i cleaned it out put itback together an it seemed to leek even more.
cheers
tony

[Neosophist]

If your leak is coming from the fuel tap bowl the o-ring has gone as it's the only thing that seals it, like you said, messing with it has made it even worse.

Take the o-ring to a local plumbers etc and get a replacement the same size and it should be fine.

http://www.jacksons-lair.co.uk/caliper. ... over-haul

David Silver Spares carrys all the seals you need, if you ring them up and tell them you need the

Piston Seals x 4 £11.80
Piston Dust Seals x 4 £8.00
Boot (B) x £5.50
Boot Pin(A) x 2 £3.40

You'll get all the seals you need. You can follow the caliper-overhaul guide on how to fit them.

Hmm.. is your clutch cable adjusted properly? Do you feel it doing something when its pulled in?

It could be that it's been standing and the plates have stuck together, i've had this happen on bikes and cars in the past.

Firstly make sure that the clutch cable is engaging the clutch, this is important.

Then, try starting it in gear with the clutch pulled in and the rear brake on hard, this should free off the clutch plates as they'll be the first to give!

Make sure the the clutch is actually engaging when you pull the lever though as you risk locking up the starter motor otherwise.. a couple of short blasts on the start button will free it off.

[lowrider]

right. filled the back break resivoir with fluid, went to loosen the nipple to bleed it but it was a bit stiff so being an idiot i tried to tap the spanner round with a hammer. but i only snapped the nipple off! is this the end of the caliper, on my brothers xt600 the same thing happened an he fitted a bolt which joins the brake line to the caliper with one with a nipple attached to it. could this be done to my bike. at the moment im tempted to buy 3 rebuilt calipers just to save the time an hasstle as the bike is so close to being ready for the road. do any other calipers bolt straight on that would be any better than the standard nissin. as i need pads all round as well i think changing calipers will be the easiest option an wont work out that much more expensive. what would you do.
but on a good note i got the clutch free. i just went a bit mad started her up jumped on it pulled the clutch in an knocked it into gear. bike jumped foward a foot then problem solved.
getting the o-ring in the morning an tyres fitted saturday. just the brakes now.
cheers for the help i was hoping it would be you that replied.

[Neosophist]

Sadly no / not very easily.

The NC21 uses a 2 piston rear caliper similar to the NC30

The NC24 uses a single piston rear caliper.

You can plus-gas / wd40 it and use a screw extractor to get it out.

Erm.

Fronts are generic honda 2 piston sliders.. never checked but the cbr600f, vfr750's, cbr400's all use very similar calipers.. out of all of them I recon the cbr400 calipers will bolt straight on, check these though first..