Post race-bingle NC30 rebuild - pic thread

[StrayAlien]

Hey Timon, honoured to have you watching. I just absa-freaking-lutely love the work you have been doing on your bikes.

[StrayAlien]

Some poeple might think I was collecting them:



But anyways .... I have put in some more elbow work on the carbs.

We have gone from this:





to this:



With the help of :



(benny, these are the pads for the Dremel I have been using to generally clean things. I got 30 or so for $10 (delivered) on ebay. Initially, I was disappointed they were a bit soft, but then I found that they were soft enough to do many 'surface' jobs without damaging anything - so I am actually very happy with them. Great for removing oxide from metal - I also got some stainless wire brushes that have been great too)

and this:



and soaking like this:



So, I'll get a quick (mild) sonic clean done this week, wait for new jets to arrive from RO and then rebuild and get em back in.

As an aside, before pulling them down, I did get them in the bike just to see if it would start. It did (yay), but ran like utter crap.

Getting them in (the heat gun is to soften the rubbers - works great) :





But they soon came back out again. Pilot screws were all over the place and this might have also had some effect:



Nice eh!

[StrayAlien]

... and the HRC linkage went in as well:





Looks good. There is more clearance. Cool.

I decided to do a test fit of the wheel I'll be using for wet tyres. Stand by by my rubber fetish friends, it is a VFR750 5.5" wheel. I would have like another 5" wheel, but I got this for free - so, it will have to do.





I've no idea what a 5.5" wheel with a 160 on it feels like ... it does spread the tyre out somewhat (I've got an knackered pirelli 160 slick on it there) but, this is experimental science friends ... there is no way to know without giving it a go, so ... I'll give it a go. This 5.5' rim was actually the wheel the previous owner of said axle and wheel raced with. There you go. Yes, it does clear the chain and swingarm.

Now, when I said a test fit .... I realised yet again I am stupid and there should be laws to stop people like me working on bikes. It didn't fit. I had a) put the wrong type of allen bolts on, and b) put them on facing the wrong way. The wheel would not go on, so .... tomorrow I'll get some M8 button head bolts from somewhere and do it right:





DOH!!!!

[benny]

Still a brilliant thread. Good pictures.
Good detail.
Yes I've got one of those in my set, thank you. Do you remember what they're called? Might get a cheep job lot.

[Drunkn Munky]

You will need low head hex bolts for the rear disc to allow the wheel to fit or you can use some sprocket studs and use a screwdriver to hold them in place while you tighten them.

Ive also seen a 170 wet on a 5.25 rear wheel work on a nc30 so that wouod be a better option for your wheel if its for wets.

[StrayAlien]

Hmmm .. 170 wet ...... but .. I have a 160 wet that is hardly used, so I'll be going with that one first.

Re the low hex bolts, yes, I have a pics of the originals:



...but I'll be stuffed if I can find them! Button tops should be okay, but they do need to be quite low.

benny: dremel buffs link (18, not 30!):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271279185802 ... 1439.l2649

wire brush link:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111159140469 ... 1439.l2649

[benny]

Hmmm .. 170 wet ...... but .. I have a 160 wet that is hardly used, so I'll be going with that one first.

benny: dremel buffs link (18, not 30!):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271279185802 ... 1439.l2649

wire brush link:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111159140469 ... 1439.l2649

Brill, thankyou

[StrayAlien]

\or you can use some sprocket studs and use a screwdriver to hold them in place while you tighten them.

Sorry, read this but it just sunk in! Funny, as I was rummaging for the old bolts I saw some spare sprocket stud bolts and was considering using some just like you say. However, I'll see if I can get the button heads first.

[StrayAlien]

back again rubber fetish friends ...

Last night the test fitment of the 5.5" to-be-wet-tyre-wheel didn't fit. So time for another go.

Bad:



So bolts needed to be the other way around and with low profile tops. A bolt like this:



I have 13mm clearance between disc and the rear caliper bracket:



So, that is my margin. With new bolts in this looks good:



but this doesn't ...



.. not going to clear at all ...



I could only get 25mm bolts. I suspect 20mm would have done very nicely, but I needed to cut these down ... so, as usual, after midnight I set about it and after some hacksawing .. the mounted axle looks good here:



and pretty good here:



Wheel back on and things are flush:



test-fitted on:



and, there is clearance ...



Groovy, the world is at peace .....

The carbs went to get an ultrasonic clean today ... and I have a small feeling I will be taken to the cleaners on price (when the guy says "I just paid a fortune for this thing" ... you know he is thinking of your wallet to get it aaaalll back- let's see).

Should have carbs back tomorrow maybe and hopefully, also a package from RO with my 40 pilots jets and some 145 mains. I have 140s at the moment but thought I'd get some of those in the post to give a try.

[Fitty]

Mate, fantastic thread. Really great to see the level of detail you're putting into it. I don't want to hijack your thread, but are you racing in the Pro 400 class? Do you race with a club?