'89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Thu May 20, 2010 10:52 am

if you rear ones are all over the spot I'd be worried about damage to the valves.

The alloy with white metal in? hmm - could be a bearing shell but these are normally brassy coloured..

to get shims - contact Rick Oliver on the site - he does an exhange, or post your current ones for a swaps deal int he parts section. have a small bag with several shims in - I'd swap you some if I had any you needed.

Would be worried that something was more knackered than just loose clearances though.

Rustyp81 · Post by **Rustyp81** » Thu May 20, 2010 11:03 am

hmm.... i've come this far i may as well try and get her sorted.

I'm gonna double check the clearances again when i get home as after reading the sticky at the top i think i may have been measuring the wrong part haha n00b

I guess all i can really do if the shims need replacing is, replace shims, make sure the oil system is working properly and then put her back together or can i take the valves out and check them?!?

i just wanna get home now and get stuck in. :)

Cheers

Russ

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Thu May 20, 2010 12:29 pm

If you are feeling motivated then you can take the valves out, lap in the valve seats and replace them. This is a fairly cool job to do, takes a bit of time and patience. You'll need a valve spring compressor and some grinding paste. Both are cheap enough and will always come in handy.

You'll need a new headgasket and the bonus is you can see the tops of your pistons and clean any carbon off them too.

Post by **skinnydog0_0** » Thu May 20, 2010 4:40 pm

CMSMJ1 wrote:If you are feeling motivated then you can take the valves out, lap in the valve seats and replace them. This is a fairly cool job to do, takes a bit of time and patience. You'll need a valve spring compressor and some grinding paste. Both are cheap enough and will always come in handy.

You'll need a new headgasket and the bonus is you can see the tops of your pistons and clean any carbon off them too.

Do you have a good lapping stick CMSMJ1? as the ones i have tried have had to large a suckers on or dont have enough stick to spin the valves.

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Thu May 20, 2010 5:17 pm

skinnydog0_0 wrote:
CMSMJ1 wrote:If you are feeling motivated then you can take the valves out, lap in the valve seats and replace them. This is a fairly cool job to do, takes a bit of time and patience. You'll need a valve spring compressor and some grinding paste. Both are cheap enough and will always come in handy.

You'll need a new headgasket and the bonus is you can see the tops of your pistons and clean any carbon off them too.
Do you have a good lapping stick CMSMJ1? as the ones i have tried have had to large a suckers on or dont have enough stick to spin the valves.

No...I had sore finger tips for a week!!! The valves being small is a git for the lapping sticks I have seen..perhaps someone somewhere has an idea of a suitable tool?

I just twizzled the valves in my fingers..got numb to the aches and pain after the first 12 valves...

Post by **skinnydog0_0** » Thu May 20, 2010 5:37 pm

Yes i did the same on the first 4 valves, then the fingers got so sore, i decided to use the electric screwdriver. I put the valve in then tighten the cordless driver onto the end of teh valve stem but only on the end so you can still push the valve out of it's seat to get the grinding paste in, then forward and reverse on the driver. also push the valve into it's seat with your thumb while holding the driver in the other hand, worked a treat, but i would have prefered to have a lapping stick no chance of scratching the valve stem.

Rustyp81 · Post by **Rustyp81** » Thu May 20, 2010 5:56 pm

well it apears, not for the first time, i have been sticking my tool in the wrong hole!! :O

Well, i think there all within tollrance, i couldnt get the 0.18 gauges under any of em, so i'm guessing this means there ok?!?!

Heres a pic of the lumps from the oil screen thinggy.

Sorry for the quality but my camera was more intrested in focusing on the dirty window ledge than the forgin objects

cheers

Russ

P.s what's a lapping stick and grinding paste??

Post by **skinnydog0_0** » Thu May 20, 2010 6:14 pm

How big are those bits of metal, size of a pea, smaller larger?
A lapping stick is a wooden stick with a rubber sucker on the end, you stick it to teh valve head and put some grinding paste (like grease with sand in) on the rim of the valve that seats in the head and roll in between your hands like Ray mears does to start a fire. Once you have done this and made an un-broken ring around the valve clean all the grinding paste off (VERY important to make sure its clean of grinding paste) This lapping will make the valve seal tightly in the head.

According to the Heinz manual;
The inlet valves should have a clearence of between 0.12 and 0.18 mm but i think its best to be nearer to the 0.18 than the 0.12

The exhaust valves should have a clearence of between 0.21 and 0.27 mm and again best to be nearer the 0.27 .

Rustyp81 · Post by **Rustyp81** » Thu May 20, 2010 6:21 pm

skinnydog0_0 wrote:How big are those bits of metal, size of a pea, smaller larger?
A lapping stick is a wooden stick with a rubber sucker on the end, you stick it to teh valve head and put some grinding paste (like grease with sand in) on the rim of the valve that seats in the head and roll in between your hands like Ray mears does to start a fire. Once you have done this and made an un-broken ring around the valve clean all the grinding paste off (VERY important to make sure its clean of grinding paste) This lapping will make the valve seal tightly in the head.

According to the Heinz manual;
The inlet valves should have a clearence of between 0.12 and 0.18 mm but i think its best to be nearer to the 0.18 than the 0.12

The exhaust valves should have a clearence of between 0.21 and 0.27 mm and again best to be nearer the 0.27 .

Mad. Ray mears and motorcycles.

The bigest bit is just smaller than a pea i would say. So tempted to put the sump and clutch coverer baxck on and fill her up with black gold but i shall wait for one of the elders to give me the nod first.

Cheers for you help skinny

Russ

Rustyp81 · Post by **Rustyp81** » Fri May 21, 2010 10:13 am

hello,

I've just put the clutch cover back on and filled her up with oil. Turned her over with the killswitch engaged and the front cylinders were puting out oil but the back to still nothing.I'm now gonna drain her down again and trry and find the feed to the rear cylinders as i'm guesssing the oil pump works as the front cylinders are getting oil to them.

Is there any thing else i should be checking??

Cheers

Russ

'89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.

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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.