Alright, iv just done cylinders 1 and 3. All within tolerance. :) the front 2 look a cunt to get too. Fking rads and wires galour lol

lizard821000 wrote:Alright, iv just done cylinders 1 and 3. All within tolerance. :) the front 2 look a cunt to get too. Fking rads and wires galour lol

While you're at it, why not remove the front radiators, give them a good flush and replenish with fresh coolant. You can undo one of the engine mount bolts holding the coil bracket holder thing to the frame (also has wires attached to it). With the leads removed you can just swing all the wiring to the other side of the bike giving you pretty decent clearance to do the valve check. (NOTE: This was the case for my race bike. To be honest I am unsure how the stock wiring actually runs so in my case the wiring was easy enough to swing across to the other side.)

yeah its no problems pal ^
iv flushed the system anyways so can easily pop it off befor i refill her.

Viper, in your pics it looks like you didn't take the plugs out, which Mr Haynes suggests should be done. Is there any reason to whip them out as part of this process?
Cheers

lizard821000 wrote:Alright, iv just done cylinders 1 and 3. All within tolerance. :) the front 2 look a cunt to get too. Fking rads and wires galour lol

I used Feeler guages with a 45 degree bend, and had no worries checking my clearances from the tank side.

Man_Named_Dave wrote:Viper, in your pics it looks like you didn't take the plugs out, which Mr Haynes suggests should be done. Is there any reason to whip them out as part of this process?
Cheers

When you take the plugs out, it makes the engine easier to turn by hand, by releasing the compression out the spark plug hole. Not that it's that hard with these tiny motors.

Is it normal for clearances to be less than the minimum requirement? Both the intake valves on cylinder 1 were incorrect. I couldn't fit a 1.2mm feeler gauge in, I think they were about 0.8-0.9.. The exhaust valves on cylinder 1 were in spec, and all cylinder 3 were correct too.

They do get tighter as the valve smashes the valve seat quite a bit!

Replace the shims and get the clearances back into spec? It's curious how they don't all change equally.

for the nc21-24

first you need to remove the fuel tank ,airbox, radiator,and unscrew the reg/rec holder (if you have the right tools you don't need to remove carbs)



lined up the two marks..



and...



adjust your valves.. in=0,11-0,15 out=0.18-0,22
recommend 0,13 and 0,20



for the cyl.no3 you must lined up the two marks..



and your camshaft to 270 degrees..



for the front cylinders you must lined up the 2t mark,and your cam to 0 degrees for your second cyl,and for 4cyl. to 4t mark and your cam. to 270 degrees