NC30 ground lead

[magg]

Not sure what the intention was of the link, doubt a few indiscriminately added earth wires are going to do much good.

I am sure that all on this forum would recommend that any mechanical problem is best fixed by repairing the cause, not adding a band-aid. Same goes for electrical problems.

Below I offer an analysis of the merit of the improvements listed in this post, could ask the same from the proponents.

If a lead connected between the engine and the frame somehow fixes an electrical problem, I would be more concerned why the engine to frame mounting points are not providing an adequate electrical connection. Same applies to the starter motor, if one has to add an earth wire between motor and frame then the quality of the mounting should be questioned. Ignition coil mounting bolts have no electrical contact with the ignition system, so adding an earth at these points has no effect.

Only a few components on an NC30/35 rely on an earth through the engine to fame connection. Unless the various mechanical components have become detached from each other, there is no merit in the added earth wiring.

The loom earth wire provides the majority the return points for the electrical components. The reliability of the wiring loop of an NC30/35, or any other bike/car for that matter, should be better that most of the other components of the vehicle, provided that it is well designed and maintained.

Older bikes I suspect could be more reliable than the newer products in the regard, as I believe the internal joins were soldered, whereas the newer versions are crimped. Should the loom be exposure to water, the solder joints will prove better than the crimped type.

Adding extra earth wires might be cheap and simple but if of no benefit, why? Can anyone identify a problem that was cured with this approach, I would be interested to know.

[Neosophist]

It seems like you just disregard everything people say becuase you know better?

doubt a few indiscriminately added earth wires are going to do much good.

Once again i'd ask why? How on what basis?

I am sure that all on this forum would recommend that any mechanical problem is best fixed by repairing the cause, not adding a band-aid. Same goes for electrical problems

The problem on affected bikes seems to be a deteriation of the internal wiring / sometimes even the quality of the metal frame has seen to have increased resistance from the farthest earth point to the battery earth lead.

Now if this is the case are you really suggesting everyone should replace the frame and wiring loom with new parts? I do agree that it is usually better to fix the problem than address the symptoms but in this case it seems to be one of the exceptions.

Only a few components on an NC30/35 rely on an earth through the engine to fame connection. Unless the various mechanical components have become detached from each other, there is no merit in the added earth wiring.

Have you actually measured the resistance from the components your talkign about to the battery negative terminal?

Once again I really will have to dig up the article but I dont know if youll either read or understand it as you dont seem to be open at all to the fact that it can make a difference.

For example the guy with the NC24 above already cleaned the stock earth points on the bike and the battery connection was in good condition but after adding some extra earths he got a better headlights.

Somethign else you probably think is magic.

http://skene.org/K1200RS/headlight-wiring/index.htm

This doesn't just apply to BMWS btw.

Not only is the stock wiring old and liable to degrading and having increased resistance it is quite thin and built to a budget to be "ok" after-call copper is expensive. the return path is long in places, this gives you a voltage drop that can be reduced with extra earths.

Tuners know this works which is why they do it. While the bike may be running they often start easier / idle a bit sweeter with improved earthing.

Even brand new bikes have been shown to have improved light output with heavier gauge wire to the bulbs, same goes for other components where you can see a voltage drop down back to the battery terminal.

Btw if you do read any of the links, youll see that it doesnt take a lot of voltage drop for the bulbs to get noticably dimmer.. coils and what not have more tollerance but (and this part is just wild speculation) when idling power is at the lowest from the genny, often like on the vfr the battery wont be charging, any voltage loss is going to be more noticable here, which might explain why some people report that their rough idle gets better.

With my own personal NC30.. I installed a new relay and used 12 gauge wire to wire direct from the battery to the relay to the headlights and left the factory stock power to the high-beam.

The low beam was much much brighter than the high beam due to the stock wirign, even though the connectors were clean and all the earths were clean.

[magg]

The original discussion was related to added earth wires at the starter motor, engine/frame and ignition coils, not voltage drop reduction with increased guage wiring, direct return paths and added relays for headlights. The latter changes will improve the lighting performance over OEM but this is a result of the OEM design. Similar action could be appled to other electrical functions but the cost and complication would greatly outway the advantage.

Which particular added earths will result in smoother idle and easier starting. Happy to comment on the likely effect of any added earths that people have applied.

The link text does not appear in english for me so cannot comment on the article.