Nc35 headlight issues

[magg]

As mentioned by speedy231278, I would check to see that there is 12 volts on the blue/white wire from the START button. This is the source of power to the headlight circuits on the NC35.

[speedy231278]

and we're talking literally about moving the button a fag paper in any particular direction - the switch is nearly as crappy and prone to not working properly as the headlight switch, so you might not even need to press it to make any difference, sometimes just resting your finger on the top or side of the button can be enough to sort out whatever's gone wrong inside. The start side switchgear is usually on eBay fairly cheap as it's less common for it to break therefore there are more about in good nick. New ones for the 30 are dead and buried according to DSS and CMS, although I'm not sure if the fiche I have is the UK or Japan market version. Give of take the connector, I don't see why the NC35 or other NC version wouldn't work seeing as they all have the same functions on them, don't they?

[magg]

The NC30 is wired differently such that headlight power is not sourced from the START button. I see no reason why an NC35 cannot be rewired to use a relay to reduce the burden on the START button for the headlight ON function.

[speedy231278]

Would that be in addition to the relay mod for the hi/lo beam switch - does the the former only take away the load for the high beam? Quite why the current needs to pass through two switches and a relay even in the standard setup is beyond me when they could just have used relays to avoid burning the switches in the first place... :s

[magg]

To unburden the NC35 START button would require a relay mod to the lo beam headlight circuit, much like the mod to the Japanese import NC30 listed in the doc. section on this site.

Both NC30 and NC35 have hi beam headlight relays as std. The UK NC30 came with a relay for lo beam and 55/60W bulbs as std, the lo beam relay mod is for the NC35 if 55/60W bulbs are fitted. This info is according to Haynes.

If interested I can provide additional comments to be included in the existing mod doc., subject to moderator approval, or simply add them to this post.

I suspect that cost was the reason relays were not fitter to both headlight circuits on the NC30/35 for all markets, especially as 35/60W bulbs were fitted for some markets.

[thunderace]

The relay wasn't considered necessary on those bikes fitted with 35/60w bulbs as standard. The 35w dipped beam is easily handled by the wiring and switch. Nothing to do with cost cutting, not directly anyway. However, if you want 55/60w bulbs on an import then you must add a relay. It's a five minute job when all said and done and only one wire to cut in the existing setup.

[magg]

For the NC35 where the START button forms part of the headlight power source circuit and it appears to be an issue, the relay option IMO is a worthwhile addition.

[speedy231278]

I thought the relay on the NC35 purely turned off the lights when the starter was engaged though, hence the need for adding the relay to the switch if you use 60/55s in order not to fry it? I guess if the switches are considered tough enough for the 60/35s, then if you have the extra relay wired in for the high beam, that should protect the start switch as well as the light switch...

[magg]

On a std NC35 all the power for lo beam passes through the STARTER button, which has a set of contacts that open when the button is pressed to momentarily remove the headlight load on the battery. There is no relay in this circuit. I believe the relay mod would be advantageous whether or not 55/60 W bulbs are fitted simply to make the lo beam circuit more reliable and improve the light performance.