NC24 Carbs - HELP!
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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Took a look and the cause was the pin that holds the float valve was sticking.
Freed this up and now i have a stutter issue so will clean the plugs etc.
Freed this up and now i have a stutter issue so will clean the plugs etc.
- thunderace
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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Took plugs out today, looks like the rear ones are fairly new but the front ones have obviously not been changed in quite a while
Now trying to source new ones, so fasr the results ain't cheap

Now trying to source new ones, so fasr the results ain't cheap

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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Where are you sourcing them from?thunderace wrote:Took plugs out today, looks like the rear ones are fairly new but the front ones have obviously not been changed in quite a while![]()
Now trying to source new ones, so fasr the results ain't cheap
The factory ones are C8EH9 which are about £6 each...
Most people use resistor plugs as they are cheaper.. slightly weaker spark but plenty of people run them no problems.
You can get a pack of 10 from the USA for £20.00
Plugs
davidsilverspares also sell both the standad C8EH9's and the CR8EH9's... just be glad you dont' have an NC30.. the plugs in that are 2x that price.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- thunderace
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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
With the current conversion rates, they're a bit more than £20 bud
I've looked on the Bay and a few other online places. Cheapest so far is Silvers at just under £7 each for NGK. That's still not cheap though, I'm used to paying around £3 each for NGK plugs but they are the resistor type.
I'm not going to mess about fitting resistor plugs because the HT leads are fine, they look fairly new tbh, so I don't see the point in replacing them to non-restance leads.

I've looked on the Bay and a few other online places. Cheapest so far is Silvers at just under £7 each for NGK. That's still not cheap though, I'm used to paying around £3 each for NGK plugs but they are the resistor type.
I'm not going to mess about fitting resistor plugs because the HT leads are fine, they look fairly new tbh, so I don't see the point in replacing them to non-restance leads.
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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Ermthunderace wrote:With the current conversion rates, they're a bit more than £20 bud![]()
I've looked on the Bay and a few other online places. Cheapest so far is Silvers at just under £7 each for NGK. That's still not cheap though, I'm used to paying around £3 each for NGK plugs but they are the resistor type.
I'm not going to mess about fitting resistor plugs because the HT leads are fine, they look fairly new tbh, so I don't see the point in replacing them to non-restance leads.
$30.99 usd is £20.32 at todays exchange rate.
Thats £2 each plug (there a pack of 10)... how did I loose you?
Fitting resistor plugs is no more different than fitting non resistor plugs.. they look identical apart from their internal construction.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- thunderace
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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
My bad, I read the eBay ad wrong. Still £30 with shipping though (and I no longer have an eBay account - they won't let me have one either since I sued them
). I'll probably just go with Silvers.

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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Indeed but for 10 plugs :D
You'll pay that from DSS for 4!
Erm.. the resistor plugs (CR8EH9's) are identical to the C8's apart from internal construction.
Most people just fit these as there cheaper.. if you look at DSS's 'service kit' they sell for the NC24 they include the CR8's with that.
Using resistor plugs and resistor leads might lead to a slightly weaker spark, but theres plenty of people on here with CR8's in their bikes with no problems, I've had dyno's of 24's running both plugs with standard leads and no difference was noted.
If you can get them cheaper they are a viable option..
You'll pay that from DSS for 4!
Erm.. the resistor plugs (CR8EH9's) are identical to the C8's apart from internal construction.
Most people just fit these as there cheaper.. if you look at DSS's 'service kit' they sell for the NC24 they include the CR8's with that.
Using resistor plugs and resistor leads might lead to a slightly weaker spark, but theres plenty of people on here with CR8's in their bikes with no problems, I've had dyno's of 24's running both plugs with standard leads and no difference was noted.
If you can get them cheaper they are a viable option..
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- thunderace
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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
So I can fit them without changing the leads then. Cool, cheers 

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Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Yep :)
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- thunderace
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- Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:03 pm
- Bike owned: R6, YZF600R
- Location: Blackburn, Lancs.
Re: NC24 Carbs - HELP!
Well, I've replaced the O-rings on the connecting pipes today and re-assembled the bike bar the air filter. It starts and runs, firing on all four, but only with the choke on. As soon as I blip the throttle, it stalls. Admittedly I've not been running it for more than a minute or so at a time so it will still be cold. I hope it may just be this and the lack of air filter thats causing it.
Cleaned the plugs and put the newer two in the fornt bank but they all seem OK for now so that's one less expense for the minute.
Also sorted out the electrical nightmare and got the indicators working properly. WTF do people not just use crimp terminals? Or at least a bit of terminal strip instead of twisting, taping and hoping for the best?
I will get around to doing a full on thread of my progress soon, I promise
Cleaned the plugs and put the newer two in the fornt bank but they all seem OK for now so that's one less expense for the minute.
Also sorted out the electrical nightmare and got the indicators working properly. WTF do people not just use crimp terminals? Or at least a bit of terminal strip instead of twisting, taping and hoping for the best?

I will get around to doing a full on thread of my progress soon, I promise
