Electrics, fueling fixed now cooling problems..

[spooky]

hmm vacuum hose re-attached, no joy.

There wasn't any clips on it in the first place so it might not be on tight enough. Still..is there any other reason fuel might not be getting in? Filters are clean.

Cheers

jack

How long did you try again as they can take a while to pull more fuel through after the carbs have been drained ?

[jackm]

Not sure, my dad did it as I am not with the bike, I will ask him to have a longer go when the vacuum hose is properly attatched when hes back from le mans..

If it doesn't fix it I am going to attack the carbs.

Just a general question, I have researched the r6 reg/rec and will get one asap but if the genny has failed how do you go about replacing that?

CHeers

Jack

[Cammo]

if the genny has failed how do you go about replacing that?

You'll need to pull off the left engine cover, remove the flywheel (M20x1.5 bolt needed!) and unbolt the generator.

[vfrman]

Cleaning the carbs are a good idea, but I would find the problem and fix it first. One thing at a time.

[jackm]

Hello!

Well she came alive this weekend, diaphragm seated properly and new vacuum pipe attached properly. Tried to start it and nothing, traced it to a loose wire on the ignition. Turned it over a few times to suck fuel through and bingo!

My Dad was checking the resistance for the genny on the yellow wires (all ok) and put it back together, it wouldn't start. He noticed the main fuse had blown, why might this of happened?

Also I've been looking in to r/r's mine seems different from honda ones pictured in the haynes and other places, the wires connects directly to the r/r and are female spades and on the r/r it has male spades. I will get a photo of it. Have I landed myself a r6 r/r? It get's very hot too...

Cheers

Jack

[Neosophist]

They all get very hot.

It's probably just a different Reg/Rec, they can be quite expensive new and Honda VFR's tend to eat them, so people often fit different ones, without information on it it could be off pretty much anything.

You could have shorted out something when messing with the bike causing the main fuse to blow.. it should be a 30amp (green) one.

These don't blow ften unless something is major wrong so just keep an eye on it, it could have been a one-off.

[jackm]

Thanks, took it out this weekend and did about 150 km on it and no electrical issues any more so i guess it was just the bad battery. Fueling is working fine too!

Next problem........


The bike is overheating, it goes way beyond 90 and up to the red in standing traffic, slow moving. When I get clean air and some speed it goes to around 100-110 Deg C I presume this is alright? it also seems a bit down on power, is this because of the over heating? or should I be looking else where. Plan to do the carbs but will get the cooling sorted first.

The fan coming on isn't working, we've tested the switch and fan using haynes and it suggests a dodgey fan..I've been looking on david silvers and ebay and rick o's stock list and can't find a fan any where. Whats my options?

I will also test the thermostat housing, from what I've read I just take the thermostat off put it in a boiling water and see if the gate opens?

also going to clean out rads etc...

Thanks for your help.

[CMSMJ1]

Clean the rads for starters and also make sure you have the coolant fully topped up. Does it vent into the overflow and if it does, does it suckit back in when cooling down?

You could have a duff rad cap - if not holding pressure the water boils easier..

SOunds as basic as dirty rads though so once they are clean and you can see through them I reckon you will be alright.
Soak them in a bucket for a day or si, then when no-one is looking whack them in the dishwasher....

[jackm]

the water pump is working if thats what you mean? I checked it by taking the rad cap off and seeing if it the water level goes down when revved? The rad cap is holding pressure-i.e not letting any coolant out. Coolant level is on max with 50/50 sillica free coolant and distilled water..

I was going to flush the system with water until clean and soak them in bucket of soapy water then put some cleaner in the coolant like another thread suggested. I don't have a dishwasher unfortunately..

The fan definitely isn't coming on which explains its traffic issues but sourcing one seems hard, can I use a nc24 fan for example?

edit: Re the thermostat testing, I can't find the thread that told you how to do it (going mad looking for it). Can some one tell me how to do it? I read on my search that if you rev the bike when its hot and the water level drops then the waters moving. Is this indicative not only of a good water pump but also a good thermostat?

cheers

[Neosophist]

the water pump is working if thats what you mean? I checked it by taking the rad cap off and seeing if it the water level goes down when revved? The rad cap is holding pressure-i.e not letting any coolant out. Coolant level is on max with 50/50 sillica free coolant and distilled water..

I was going to flush the system with water until clean and soak them in bucket of soapy water then put some cleaner in the coolant like another thread suggested. I don't have a dishwasher unfortunately..

The fan definitely isn't coming on which explains its traffic issues but sourcing one seems hard, can I use a nc24 fan for example?

edit: Re the thermostat testing, I can't find the thread that told you how to do it (going mad looking for it). Can some one tell me how to do it? I read on my search that if you rev the bike when its hot and the water level drops then the waters moving. Is this indicative not only of a good water pump but also a good thermostat?

cheers

If you take the thermostat out of the bike, boil up a pan of water and when it's boiling drop the thermostat in it, you should see it open up ( I think it's 8mm) If it doesn't move your themostat is broken.

As for the fan.. with the igntiion on, ground the fan wire (the one from the rad temp sensor) to an earth, ie frame bolt) the fan should work.

If it doesn't check the wiring to the fan.