Dead NC30 - electrical problem
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Dead NC30 - electrical problem
Nothing on the NC30 works now. It was running fine three weeks ago, all the lights worked, it would fire up every time. Then two weeks ago when I was going to work on it again, it just stopped working. I switched on the ignition, neutral and oil lights didnt come on, then came on dim, flickered and went off, at the same time one of the solenoids was buzzing, so I pressed the ignition button and it fired up but none of the lights would come on, not even any of the idiot lights. So I switched it off and tried it again but nothing happened. Just silence. I stuck in the battery from my Fazer and the same result.
So three batteries don't work on it, despite the battery being connected to an Optimate 4 for six months and would show a healthy 14 odd volts on the multimeter at whatever rpm, I can't remember.
None of the fuses have blown. There are no loose connections. The only thing that has changed has been the regulator rectifier but that was changed seven months ago and the NC30 was running every single day after then. The wiring loom has not been touched since. I've just been dealing with the mechanics.
Does anyone have any idea whats wrong? The Haynes manual mentions nothing.
So three batteries don't work on it, despite the battery being connected to an Optimate 4 for six months and would show a healthy 14 odd volts on the multimeter at whatever rpm, I can't remember.
None of the fuses have blown. There are no loose connections. The only thing that has changed has been the regulator rectifier but that was changed seven months ago and the NC30 was running every single day after then. The wiring loom has not been touched since. I've just been dealing with the mechanics.
Does anyone have any idea whats wrong? The Haynes manual mentions nothing.
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
Happened to my wife's bike not so long ago too, It turned out to be an earth cable - it ran from the battery negative (I think) down to the frame below the coil on the left hand side (as you sit on), might be worth checking all the earth cables though.
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
like whats been said,check the earth by the coil.
if you have a multimeter take it with you next time you go for a run and if it happens again test a few culprits.first check would be battery,voltage at rest and if the bike starts voltage output at 5000rpm.
i would double check the wiring to and from ignition,starter switch,starter relay.the buzzing you heard is more than likely from the starter relay(solenoid).
wull
if you have a multimeter take it with you next time you go for a run and if it happens again test a few culprits.first check would be battery,voltage at rest and if the bike starts voltage output at 5000rpm.
i would double check the wiring to and from ignition,starter switch,starter relay.the buzzing you heard is more than likely from the starter relay(solenoid).
wull
please,god,....give me the chance to prove that winning the lottery won't spoil me!!!
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
The earth cable is bolted on to the frame and hasn't moved before or after this. Its bolted with the ignition coil in the same thread.
The buzzing was rapid and I'm not sure if it came from the starter solenoid or the indicator relay. Any ideas why the buzzing would be faster than normal?
The buzzing was rapid and I'm not sure if it came from the starter solenoid or the indicator relay. Any ideas why the buzzing would be faster than normal?
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
Take it off and clean it up :)neptune wrote:The earth cable is bolted on to the frame and hasn't moved before or after this. Its bolted with the ignition coil in the same thread.
The buzzing was rapid and I'm not sure if it came from the starter solenoid or the indicator relay. Any ideas why the buzzing would be faster than normal?
Take the cables off the solenoid and clean them connections up too, do the same with the battery connections. I like to coat everything in vaseline / dielectric grease.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
The connections are already clean and I did a continuity test and everything comes comes up as normal. I'm totally baffled.
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
Got a problem with mine at present and its seems to be around the CDI muiltiplugs... Give them both a good clean/ wiggle about with ignition on and see if anything comes to life (Oil pressure light/ neutral light etc)
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
I'll give that a try. Just can't think why the NC30 would suddenly stop working when it was all fine the week before and hasn't been touched in that time.
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
sticking solenoid?
I had one pack up.. tap the solenoid with a spanner
I had one pack up.. tap the solenoid with a spanner
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: Dead NC30 - electrical problem
check the fuses and bulbs. and the connections as said above.
a continuity test usually doesn't mean much. my multimeter will beep continuity for anything under 50 ohms, but for a lot of connections you need close to zero ohms.
check for burnt wires or a short. does it smell burnt? check how much current the bike pulls off/on from the battery, or what its resting voltage is. should give some clues.
a continuity test usually doesn't mean much. my multimeter will beep continuity for anything under 50 ohms, but for a lot of connections you need close to zero ohms.
check for burnt wires or a short. does it smell burnt? check how much current the bike pulls off/on from the battery, or what its resting voltage is. should give some clues.