Reg/rec and carbs

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mattydrvf
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Bike owned: Rvf baby
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Reg/rec and carbs

Post by mattydrvf » Sun May 31, 2015 9:44 pm

Hi people. Im in the process of getting my nc35 ready for the road again after nearly 3 years in the shed. I had a problem with the main fuse blowing when i connected the new battery but have found out its my reg/rec up the swanny. Now before the fuse blew i managed to start her and run for 20 secs or so. After which it started leaking petrol and it looks like it came from the carbs. I know i should of cleaned carbs through first but im an impatient guy. Really i want to know if the petrol leak can just be caused by blocked jets/carbs etc and causing an overflow somewhere or if its more likely to be seals. Also is it best to just buy another genuine honda reg or are there better out there that make any difference.

SevenThreeSeven
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Re: Reg/rec and carbs

Post by SevenThreeSeven » Sun May 31, 2015 10:55 pm

Regarding the Regulator/Rectifier question: A modern MOSFET R/R is a better item than the old-school Thyristor based unit. The MOSFET unit is more efficient, produces less heat, and produces a more accurate DC output which is easier on the battery in the long term, resulting in better battery lifespan.

I know that your NC35 is one of the most tightly packaged bikes in the entire history of motorcycles, but if the OEM R/R location has just a bit of extra space around it (I mention this because the MOSFET units are usually slightly larger than the old Thyristor units) I'd say go ahead and install something modern. For my GSF400 I found a Yamaha YZF-R1 R/R on Ebay pretty cheap and sourced the connectors from Easternbeaver.com

manicguitarist
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Re: Reg/rec and carbs

Post by manicguitarist » Mon Jun 01, 2015 9:50 am

Re the reg/rec speak to Rick Oliver on here about a new one.

Failing that - when you mount the new reg/rec (it really is a very simple job) make sure that you use thermal paste between the reg/rec and the chassis - the thing here you want is to dissipate the heat it generates and the bike frame makes a great heat-sink.

I'd also consider a modification where you run the output from the reg/rec directly to the battery (via a fuse). The OEM wiring tends to have quite a large voltage drop across it. The whole reg/rec replacement and re-wiring would take you about 30mins - most of which would be removing the rear bodywork.

Re the fuel leak - yes. That will be bunged up carbs. The float will be blocked and it won't cut off the fuel flow once the carb-bowl is full...and then it just overflows.

M

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