Electrical problem

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Neosophist
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Re: Electrical problem

Post by Neosophist » Sat Apr 13, 2013 6:34 am

Jac-al wrote:just went for a 30km ride and stopped to put some juice, bike was off for 2min and when i tried to start it just buzzed. pomp joggie push started me an when i got home i tested the alternator and the reading was 1.6ohms. haynes says healthy it should be 0.1-1.0 ohms. what would be the cause of this?
Frankly, You not listening and running the bike when many people told you not to.

1.6 ohms is probably fine, the meter most likely has a bit of internal resistance.
magg wrote:I would recommend you not run the engine again until you replace the rect/reg, otherwise you could damage the ignition control unit. It has probably already damaged the battery which is why it will not hold a charge and possibly why the battery cap blew off. A rect/reg that has a failed output control section will not usually show any outward signs of damage. They can be tested but it is a complicated process and they cannot be repaired if faulty anyway.
[quote="Neosophist]

This is overcharging.

Dont run the bike, the battey is most likely knackered too. Also replace the reg/rec.

After a new battery and reg/rec check the stator fully.

Member on here reently had the same and didnt replace the battery, killed the new reg/rec and the ignition box[/quote]

Here is some bullet points incase you missed anything.

* Regulator is dead
* Battery has been killed due to dead regulator over-charging it (hence the cap blowing off)

How to fix:

* Buy new good quality replacement regulator. A second hand one off a 1999-2005 R6 will be fine.
* Buy a good replacement battery.
* Fully charge the battery with a proper charger and fit and test the output.

13.5 - 15v is what your aiming for, any less than 13 and the generator is knackered too and will need replacing.

I put the above story up to veriy why at least 2 people (including myself) have said do not run the bike at all.

The longer you run it with an over-charging system the greater the damage will be.

You have already killed the battery, the generator can and will die eventually, so will the ignition box and perhaps some wires.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...

Jac-al

Re: Electrical problem

Post by Jac-al » Sat Apr 13, 2013 9:34 am

Just wanted to go for one more ride to see if the battery will charge.
Tried to check the stator but cant get that centre bolt off, dont have one of those weird tools

i thought it was giving in for awhile wish i went with my gut--
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=40192

Jac-al

Re: Electrical problem

Post by Jac-al » Sat Apr 13, 2013 2:10 pm

Is this the right R6 rec i must use?

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Jac-al

Re: Electrical problem

Post by Jac-al » Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:57 pm

hi,

while tryna source out a cheap rec/reg, a shop close to me say they cant get for a vfr but have genuine honda ones that will fit. my question is will this be as good as a R6 one or not?

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speedy231278
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Re: Electrical problem

Post by speedy231278 » Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:07 am

Genuine Honda ones, especially those without cooling fins are prone to overheating and failing. You can get aftermarket ones that are a direct replacement for the Honda unit from eBay, just don't go for a really cheap one. Even a medium priced aftermarket one will be much cheaper than Hahahonda's spares price. The R6 one is said to be more bomb proof than the Honda/Honda style ones, presumably as it seems to have a bigger area on it to dissipate the heat. I think you need to cut the plug off the loom and fit individual connectors to each pin and the plug style is different. I could be wrong here, so if y ou go the R6 route, wait until you get it. Don't get a different year R6 to that specified, however. I'm pretty sure other years have a different number of pins, and therefore will not work.
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