Hi everyone I'm gonna replace my battery ans rectifier to sort out that niggle. I've seen some candidates on eBay and was wondering if I could get a second opinion for buying. I've also ready that buying an r6 rectifier for the pre 04 bike will sort out the burning out rectifier issue, is this true? And that I have to just mount it the other way up so the pins line up (5 pin).
Here is the link for the battery, I want to get a decent one especially for the winter
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 4101632826
Here is the rectifier:
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 1877628444
Sorry to sound like a complete noon but I'm only just getting started on bikes and would appreciate some guidance on this whole electric and charging matter.
Many thanks!
Chris
battery replacement and r6 rectifier - nc35
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randomcaller
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speedy231278
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Re: battery replacement and r6 rectifier - nc35
That battery will fit, but I'm not sure just what advantages that a lithium ion cell will have over a conventional one that justifies being two or three times the price of a more conventional battery.
The rectifier will work, but I'm not sure if the plug on the loom will actually fit it properly or not. In any case, it should be possible to rotate it through 180 degrees so you don't have to mount the rectifier backwards, which would NOT be a good idea. You'll lose the cooling effect of the fins, and also significantly reduce the heatsink effect between the unit and the plate on the subframe. Of course, if the R6 unit is one of those clever gadgets that switches the output to avoid using itself to dissipate the excess energy, then it won't run hot anyway and this will be irrelevant. A lot of people have used middle of the road replacement Honda type reg/recs wiithout issue, however the choice is obviously yours.
The rectifier will work, but I'm not sure if the plug on the loom will actually fit it properly or not. In any case, it should be possible to rotate it through 180 degrees so you don't have to mount the rectifier backwards, which would NOT be a good idea. You'll lose the cooling effect of the fins, and also significantly reduce the heatsink effect between the unit and the plate on the subframe. Of course, if the R6 unit is one of those clever gadgets that switches the output to avoid using itself to dissipate the excess energy, then it won't run hot anyway and this will be irrelevant. A lot of people have used middle of the road replacement Honda type reg/recs wiithout issue, however the choice is obviously yours.
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speedy231278
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Re: battery replacement and r6 rectifier - nc35
Might sound a silly question but you've not posted anything yet on actually having issues with the charging circuit. Do you have issues, or are you just looking to avoid them? If it's the latter, then rather then spent time and effort on fixing something that hasn't broken, I'd search for some of the plethora of threads here on the issue and what causes it, so you can see if it's going down that road. It's a very good thing to want to keep on top of, it's a bloody nightmare when it starts playing up!
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randomcaller
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Re: battery replacement and r6 rectifier - nc35
Thanks for the reply!
The bike was fine when I first got it but I hadn't done my full license so it sat for a while, was started and warmed up quite a bit but the battery's charge dissipated to nearly nothing. I've got a 12v charger but its still only just got enough umph to get the bike started and sounds like it struggles, no where near as frugal as when I first had it. I just thought might have been a good idea to sort the reg out too as I've heard its a common niggle and my friend had the same thing happen on his. Also planning on taking it across to Austria next year (brave on my back I kbow!) So want a piece of mind that its not gonna fail really! I've seen the jap replacement ones knocking around eBay but would rather be sure that it would work and not be destined to die like the factory unit. Other than that when the bike is running it charges fine but still only enough to start it and with these colder mornings fast approaching I feel I'm pushing my luck ;p
The bike was fine when I first got it but I hadn't done my full license so it sat for a while, was started and warmed up quite a bit but the battery's charge dissipated to nearly nothing. I've got a 12v charger but its still only just got enough umph to get the bike started and sounds like it struggles, no where near as frugal as when I first had it. I just thought might have been a good idea to sort the reg out too as I've heard its a common niggle and my friend had the same thing happen on his. Also planning on taking it across to Austria next year (brave on my back I kbow!) So want a piece of mind that its not gonna fail really! I've seen the jap replacement ones knocking around eBay but would rather be sure that it would work and not be destined to die like the factory unit. Other than that when the bike is running it charges fine but still only enough to start it and with these colder mornings fast approaching I feel I'm pushing my luck ;p
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speedy231278
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Re: battery replacement and r6 rectifier - nc35
You might possibly find that after having been left standing for a while, the battery has seen better days. If by the above you mean you charge it, stick it on the bike and it barely starts, it sounds more like either the charger isn't charging the battery enough, or the battery isn't accepting enough charge. If the bike started happily, but the battery ran down, it may not be charging properly, or at all. What you want to do is get your hands on a multimeter and measure across the battery terminals to see what is being pushed out.
If the battery has been charged properly by the bike, you should have around 12.8V with the ignition off. Less than that indicates how discharged it is, and the closer it gets to 12.0V the slimmer your chances of starting are, and if it gets under that, then not only is the battery potentially being damaged, but you'll probably find the solenoid won't trigger, and the starter motor won't even get any juice to start with.
If the battery is a bit low, give it a charge before testing. DON'T use a fast charger, nor one that delivers more than 1A of charging current as this can also hurt batteries. Get a Multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery. With the bike on idle you should get 13V or thereabouts. Much less is not too good. At 5000rpm, you should get 13.5V as a bare minimum, ideally at least 0.5V more, up to a maximum of 15.5V. Over 15.5V will damage the battery and cause it to give you no end of issues, like going flat very quickly and/or not really charging. Note that as the headlights are always on, with the ignition switch on but the bike not running, the voltage at the battery will drop to under 13V, probably more like 12.5 or maybe a tiny bit more. This is normal. if it doesn't increase when you have the bike running, the battery is not being charged at all. Usually a broken wire on the reg/rec connector, or possibly where the alternator plugs into the loom.
Charge it, test it, post back what you find.....
If the battery has been charged properly by the bike, you should have around 12.8V with the ignition off. Less than that indicates how discharged it is, and the closer it gets to 12.0V the slimmer your chances of starting are, and if it gets under that, then not only is the battery potentially being damaged, but you'll probably find the solenoid won't trigger, and the starter motor won't even get any juice to start with.
If the battery is a bit low, give it a charge before testing. DON'T use a fast charger, nor one that delivers more than 1A of charging current as this can also hurt batteries. Get a Multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery. With the bike on idle you should get 13V or thereabouts. Much less is not too good. At 5000rpm, you should get 13.5V as a bare minimum, ideally at least 0.5V more, up to a maximum of 15.5V. Over 15.5V will damage the battery and cause it to give you no end of issues, like going flat very quickly and/or not really charging. Note that as the headlights are always on, with the ignition switch on but the bike not running, the voltage at the battery will drop to under 13V, probably more like 12.5 or maybe a tiny bit more. This is normal. if it doesn't increase when you have the bike running, the battery is not being charged at all. Usually a broken wire on the reg/rec connector, or possibly where the alternator plugs into the loom.
Charge it, test it, post back what you find.....